People who read me regularly enough will know that I love Belgian beer. In its infinite complexity and variability, it’s a subject as absorbing and satisfying as any wine region.

So, I was happy to pop this small bottle of Brasserie Dupont’s organic, Saison-style beer, called Foret. Brasserie Dupont, in French-speaking Belgium, knows a bit about brewing this style, since they've been doing it since 1844. A Saison-style beer is a rustic, farmhouse-style beer. The farmhouse reference means that it was traditionally made in an old farmhouse, fermenting at a high temperature and resulting in all sorts of wild aromas and flavors. Foret embodies those descriptions perfectly, smelling not only like a farmhouse but, shall we say, the entire barnyard. At first the pungency of wild herbs, straw, compost and brambly hops can be a bit jarring, but as you get into the beer it transports you to grassy, flower-strewn meadows in summer.

A great beer and available at Whole Foods.