Breaking Bakery News
May 02, 2007
My name is Earl. You can call
As usual, I’m working the bakery beat. For a long time, I’ve felt that this city is lacking in good old-fashioned, ordinary American-style bakeries. Like the rest of the world, I love Tartine’s croissants and delicate madeleines from Boulangerie Bay Bread. But sometimes you just want a big slice of coconut cream pie, or a chocolate chip cookie that isn’t too pale, or too crispy or—a real threat here—too fancy. Where to go for a slice of red velvet cake, a whoopie pie, and a loaf of cinnamon raisin bread?
A few weeks I was walking along Polk Street en route to a delicious dinner at Antica Trattoria (if you haven’t been to this gem, which is turning ten this year, you should check it out), taking note of the new happenings. Tajine looks happily settled in their new digs, and Bob’s Donuts seemed to have an ample selection, even at 6pm. Then, I passed a lush store window, the interior shielded by swathes of pink satin. A (faux) wedding cake was front and center, and a big sign announced the soon-to-be resident: Lotta’s Bakery!
A note from the owner, G. Earl Garny, was taped to the door, telling passersby to get ready for the return of the full-service bake-shop. Well, I’m ready, and not a moment too soon. Lotta’s opened today, their cases full of cakes, breads, breakfast pastries and cookies. Mr. Garny has worked at Bay Wolf and Sweet Adeline Bakery (both in the East Bay) and also helped our Emily Luchetti on her terrific book, Four Star Desserts, so I’m pretty sure that the goods he’ll be turning out will be top-notch. As for Lotta—she’s Garny’s drag alter-ego, who makes infrequent (but, I’m sure, spectacular) appearances.
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