California Food Goes National


The May issue of Bon Appetit is on newsstands now, and in it is an article by writer Nathalie Jordi titled "California: Food's Golden State." The article chronicles her roadtrip through the state:

"What, though, does food culture actually look like in today's California? Who's setting the new trends there now? And how will they affect those of us living elsewhere? Behind the wheel of a glossy, purring Mercedes C350, I set out to investigate, tracing a route from Marin County to San Diego. After the 46 meals and conversations I had with the cooks, ranchers, cheesemakers, winemakers, restaurateurs, waiters, grocers, and farmers I encountered on my weeklong 1,300-mile peregrination, I felt enlightened, bronzed, hopeful, ready to move to California—and just a little crowded in the gut."

Shameless plug of Mercedes aside, the article doesn't seem to shed new light on much (in it, she mentions Bi-Rite, Bill Niman, Coi chef Daniel Patterson, Ubuntu's Jeremy Fox, Andy Griffin of Mariquita Farms and Celia Sack, owner of Omnivore Books, even getting Patterson to state "The overarching theme seems pretty clearly to be a movement toward redefining how we grow and raise our food." No kidding!). But I'm trying not to be jaded. Outside of our bubble (which she sums up during a visit to Bi-Rite as "a happy cliché of California culinary privilege, a sort of happy utopian foodie future") these discoveries and developments may well be news. In which case, I should say, welcome to the club, folks. We've got it good here.

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