2006 Grgich Hills Estate Chardonnay
Citrus and apple with a hint of toast and spice. Tightly wound, this wine insinuates that even a half bottle will keep nicely for a few years. ($22)

2005 Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs
Gorgeous and complex, this wine has the perfect balance between sharp, laser-like structure and deep, hedonistic richness. ($16)

2006 Robert Sinskey Carneros Pinot Noir
Sinskey has the touch when it comes to Pinot. Notes of red cherry and cranberry have an underlying bed of loam and tea. The fresh acidity is integrated for a velvety texture. ($19)

2005 Beringer Nightingale
Modeled on Sauternes, this Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc blend is redolent of honey, orange spice, apricot and crème brûlée. Serve slightly chilled. ($40)

2005 Duckhorn Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
Beyond the cassis and blackberry lushness is a trademark savory component of black olive, sagebrush and toast. Worthy of aging. ($34)