Candybar Opens in NoPa


The preview of Candybar earlier this week proves that there are still original eat-and-drink concepts waiting to be explored. We have dessert destinations and wine bars, and now we have a dessert+wine bar in which the desserts arrive in bite-sized nuggets (courtesy of pastry chef Jake Godby of Coi and Fifth Floor).

I believe all desserts should be bite-sized. That way you need never decline them, and can actually sample more than one, without guilt. If the delicacies on Tuesday night were any indication, and if you're anything like me, you'll actually end up eating more than if you ordered one of those huge double-fudge-peanut-butter concoctions they sell at places like the Cheesecake Factory. Savory bites like pork loin on crostini topped with a sliver of pickle and fluffy, cheesy, buttery gougeres were matched—nay, outdone—by sigh-producing mini carrot cakes, tiny ice cream sandwiches and blood-orange glazed donuts the size of silver dollars.

The petite, minimal space is a red and beige splash of clean design on a Nopa corner that, not long ago, could have been called gritty. Relax on loungey window seats, peruse local artists' work or take down the Scrabble game from the bookcase. When Candybar officially opens this weekend, it'll be milk-and-cookie time for grownups. One more new (and delicious) idea is born in San Francisco.

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