Citizen Cake Connections
Sanchia’s one of my best friends in the city. As luck would have it, she’s married to Sean Forsha, the second-in-command under executive chef Elizabeth Falkner of Citizen Cake (and soon Orson). And as if I could get any luckier, Sanchia invited me to dine with her at the newly remodeled Citizen Cake last Tuesday.
Citizen Cake reopened the first week in September to a spacious dining room with 21 more seats than before. The pastry and coffee counter was moved to the spot where they once did all the baking (which is still awaiting permits for its separate entrance and glass front) to make room for the bar, which in turn made room for a cozy, more casual nook of tables and banquette seating—where we sat.
When you dine with the wife of the chef, you get the royal treatment—believe me. Our mustachioed waiter, Matt (who will run Orson when it—cross your fingers—opens at the end of the year) started us off with some bubbly and then paired various wines with our meal. Meanwhile, chef Sean walked us through the e.e. cummings-esque menu (you’ll understand when you read it), and when we couldn’t seem to narrow the list down much, he offered to make us small portions of almost everything so we could get a taste.
I couldn’t rave enough about the halibut and local squid atop black coco beans, which had the consistency and size of a pinto but were substantially more flavorful. The sliced, skinless, boneless chicken breast with fresh corn and mushrooms was also outstanding—tender, juicy and perfectly cooked. Goat cheese-filled squash blossoms over a bed of finely chopped ratatouille would satisfy any cheese-eating vegetarian. And I don’t think I’ve had better tomatoes this year than the ones I tasted in the heirloom tomato salad with bufala mozzarella.
Nights like that make me think that I should marry a chef—although that role’s better left to those with more self control around good food than I have.