Born Again

Restaurants have been going the way of Nip/Tuck—opting for extreme makeovers. First Cozmo’s, the Chestnut Street singles-scene mecca, reinvented itself as the swanky Circa, then last fall, restaurateur Jocelyn Bulow turned his struggling La Suite restaurant into the French-Asian bistro Sutra. Most recently, upscale Hawthorne Lane evolved from business-dinner formal to a hip, retro-chic restaurant called Two. There, chefs Bridget Batson and David Gingrass aim to satisfy just about every craving with their eclectic menu, which features such dishes as garlicky spaghetti with sea urchin, house-made headcheese and doughnuts filled with a tart raspberry preserve.

Two 22 Hawthorne St., 415-777-9779