Cat Cora’s plate is not only full—it runneth over

Cat Cora’s plate is not only full—it runneth over. Since she left her post as the chef of Postino, the East Bay restaurant, in 2002, the Food Network veteran of seven years has become the only female Iron Chef, had a son named Zoran (now three years old), founded Chefs for Humanity, published a cookbook (and has her second, Cooking from the Hip, due out in April from Houghton Mifflin). She’s also poised to open the first of a series of her own restaurants. When the Mississippi native is not traveling—which is currently only about two months out of the year—she’s at home with her partner, Jennifer, in the Napa Valley area. Soon though, the couple will be relocating to Santa Barbara, and moving into a house equipped, of course, with a top-of-the-line kitchen. “Walk-in refrigerators, warming trays, fireplace,” she says excitedly in her subtle Southern twang, “We’re just going to blow out the place!” No surprise there. This is not a woman who does things small.

So what’s new?
I’m working on a fast-casual concept that will most likely launch in the Los Angeles area. It’s going to be a big artisan-food hall with Rick Bayless doing Mexican, Nancy Silverton doing a smaller version of La Brea Bakery and Todd English doing Figs. I’m considering doing a global barbecue restaurant there. The whole concept would come to San Francisco eventually.

Why global barbecue?
I mean, the Greeks barbecue, the Italians barbecue, the Argentinians barbecue, the Koreans barbecue—so the world barbecues! It’ll be called “CCQ—World Flavors on Fire.” It stands for Cat Cora’s ’Que.

How does fast-casual fit in our Slow Food city?
A lot of chefs are doing fast-casual. Thomas Keller is doing this with his “burgers and bottles” concept, Tom Colicchio is doing it with ’Wichcraft. People are demanding it. Bottom line—chefs get pampered and treated to white truffles and 12-course meals, but what chefs go home and eat are the most comforting, simplest dishes, whether it’s an egg sandwich or a big bowl of spaghetti with a great sauce.

The Food Network is going in this direction, letting go of chefs like Mario Batali while pushing Rachael Ray and semi-homemade types like Sandra Lee.
I definitely see that trend happening, but Iron Chef America is also a top show and a really great fit for me. We’re branching out to other mainstream and larger networks.

Who’s the toughest judge?
Jeffrey Steingarten [of Vogue], for sure. Jeffrey wants to be the Simon Cowell of Iron Chef.

What makes it a good fit for you?
It’s competitive and I’m competitive … plus, I have a strong restaurant background like Mario and Bobby. It’s given me a national presence and respect from both men and women, allowing me to be a mentor to young girls.


"A lot of chefs are doing fast-casual. Thomas
Keller is doing this with his ‘burgers and bottles,’
Tom Colicchio is doing it with ’Wichcraft.
People are demanding it."

Speaking of, what was the reaction to the tongue-in-cheek—but decidedly cleavage-baring—photo shoot you did for FHM set in a convenience store and titled “Mini-Mart Iron Chef”?
Well, I had been approached by Playboy, Playgirl, and I said, There’s no way I’m going to do that. But Rachael [Ray] had done FHM over three years before, and her agent and my agent are at the same agency, and hey, it didn’t hurt her career, so I said, Let’s do it once. I think it was cool. I’m an older woman and a mom, and it was fun for me to do one thing to show my femininity.

You say you cook a lot at home. Are you an Iron Chef in the kitchen?
When I’m in charge of the meal, I’m in charge of the meal, so it’s like “everybody clear out.” I travel so much so that when I’m home, to me, cooking is a luxury. I get to open a bottle of wine, relax, take my time.

What cuisines have you been dabbling in—what are you excited about?
North and South African cuisine. One of the things that I’ve learned is a [Senegalese] lamb stew called mafe—a peanut stew made with peanut butter, which I love. If I were stranded on an island, just give me peanut butter.

What’s at the forefront of your pantry?
Za’atar is something that I use a lot. Yogurts and things like that. Garam masala. Cinnamon.

What makes the restaurant scene here unique?
Chefs here stay true to themselves.

What San Francisco restaurant would you like to have next door to your house?
The Slanted Door.

Where do you want to go next?
I want to go to Ad Hoc [Thomas Keller’s new casual restaurant in Yountville]. Everything he touches is gold. I spent Thanksgiving with Thomas at Susie Heller’s house in Napa. She invites several chefs over. I was cooking. Thomas was enjoying. We kind of had this Iron Chef turkey cookoff. Someone did a beer-can turkey, someone did a classic turkey. I did a grilled turkey with a pomegranate glaze. I actually won.

What do you crave from here when you’re gone?
Really good ale from the Pelican Inn, in Muir Beach, where you can sit by the fire.

And secrets?
I’m a real softy with my son. I’m a total marshmallow.