The Inner Richmond

Developed on unwanted land by some of the city’s earliest Chinese and Irish immigrants, Clement Street was multicultural long before the word became trendy. It’s also often swathed in fog, but that’s never stopped locals from enjoying its Vietnamese kitchens, Chinese bakeries or Thai noodle shops. These days, yet another nationality is joining the mix, on what’s been called “Upper Clement.” The blocks between Arguello Boulevard and Fourth Avenue are slowly becoming known for their Gallic vibe; several small shops specialize in French imports, while cozy Clementine provides the Frenchie food cred. And the opening of Park Life two years ago brought design-savvy style and rotating art shows. Gentrification-phobes needn’t worry, though: Clement Street still hosts some of the best cheap eats and bargains in town.

Photography by Stefanie Michejda

Fact: There’s always a line at tiny Burma Superstar. Luckily, you can leave your cell-phone number and settle in across the street at Blue Danube, where you can lounge on a comfy sofa with a glass of wine or a latte while you wait. Once your table’s ready, you definitely want to dive straight into Superstar’s two most-requested dishes: the samusa soup and the stellar 22-ingredient Rainbow Salad. If you just can’t wait, head down Clement to Burma’s new(ish) sibling, B Star, which serves a few of the original restaurant’s specialties, along with a savory Thai salmon green-curry pot pie. Traditional French fare is only part of the draw up at Chapeau!—just over the Park Presidio border, technically in the Outer Richmond—where you can design your own three-to-four-course meal. You’ll also find chef/co-owner Philippe Gardelle roaming the dining room to chat while you await your cassoulet de Toulouse. Gardelle recently took over at neighborhood fave Clementine, transforming the place into an authoritative French force. Sweetbreads, foie gras, escargot—it’s all here, done right. You’ll find another line snaking out of the door of Good Luck Dim Sum—understandably, since most dishes clock in at less than three bucks. Try the turnip cake or the chicken sui mai to get a good feel of dim sum at its best. You may be distracted by all the toys, including a supermarket-style riding pony, at Toy Boat Dessert Cafe. Get in on the act by grabbing some stick-on mustaches and candy necklaces while waiting for your homemade ice-cream sandwich. Locals tend to favor Blissful Bites, where pastry chef/owner Seungho Yoo proves that there really is an art to creating quality goodies. The raspberry cream-cheese cupcakes practically fly off the shelf. And if you love serving Middle Eastern apps at your dinner parties, head to Haig’s Delicacies for freshly made couscous, spanakopita, dolmas and more.

Clement’s decidedly Gallic trend starts at Péché Mignon, where you can pick up a France-shaped cheese board, complete with Laguiole knife. Not all 258 French cheeses are represented on the board, but the best-known ones are present and accounted for. If price isn’t an issue, scope out April in Paris for wallets and handbags crafted from some of the rarest French leathers—by a former Hermès leatherworker, no less. Appealing to new moms, Maison de Belles Choses carries couture baby wear ranging from Pixie Lily knit booties to precious polka-dot rain boots for stomping in puddles. Fleur*t’s classy, custom floral arrangements are eye-catching, but so are items such as the ever-popular, hard-to-find Japanese screens by Denise Fikes. Period George specializes in all things delicate and lovely: china, tableware and eclectic Euro vintage accessories that’ll make you want to empty your wallet. Leaving Little France (in spirit at least), pretend you’re at a street fair and peruse the one-of-a-kind bounty at With Style. Boutique owner Kathryn Wong stocks such treasures as kids’ Purepensee’s wool sweaters from Belgium. Sisters Alice and Susan Miyamoto run a tight ship at Satin Moon Fabrics, where miles of damask, silk, corduroy and chenille can feel claustrophobic; be patient, and you’ll find the perfect textile for those pillows or curtains. Crafty types also get their kicks at Cherish perusing the immense card collection or attending the Scrapbooking 101 class; if your apartment’s cramped, you can also rent studio space for just $5 an hour and spread out. Before you head home, pick up a good read at Green Apple Books, one of the few used-book stores left in the city, and perhaps the best.

On a lazy Sunday, pop into White Ginger day spa and art gallery, order up a White Ginger Pure mani/pedi, sip a pink mimosa and ogle the eye-popping rotation of local art. A remnant of the neighborhood’s Irish roots, the Plough and Stars is one of the city’s most authentic pubs, frequently bringing Irish musicians and dancers to its tiny stage. SF’s live-music scene doesn’t stop at Divisadero: Clement’s Rockit Room hosts both local and national acts at doable prices and with affordable drink specials. Finally, the must-see Park Life art gallery/design store is a notable forum for emerging artists and a good place to pick up trendy items such as DCI’s “I Am Not A Paper Cup,” a porcelain rendition of the to-go cup. The last show of the year, “Funhouse,” features the work of eight painters and multimedia artists, and runs through November 30.