Rockin' a Hard Place

Still as gritty as ever, the TenderNob is thriving.

posted June 17, 2008 1:52PM

Anchored by a stretch of Geary just west of the historic A.C.T. and Curran theaters, the blocks where the seedy Tenderloin and tony Nob Hill merge have seen a dozen new bars, restaurants and shops open their doors in the past few years. Whether you call this zone the TenderNob or the Trendyloin, its heart consists of a handful of swanky watering holes that have already evolved beyond hip—when visiting East Coast relations ask to see Bourbon & Branch, you know the neighborhood is on its way up. A block north, on Post, you can hopscotch from art galleries to boutiques selling high-end urban apparel. You'll pass spots that have closed, then reopened and are reopening again (the 30-plus-year-old Owl Tree bar). And the hotels aren't far behind: This fall the Maxwell will become the new Hotel Frank, and its sister property on Sutter will morph from the shabby York into the chic Hotel Vertigo. By the time you hit Bush, though, you'll intuit something like an invisible fence—the innate sense that the scene is cooling and you're returning to cleaner, safer but perhaps less interesting quarters.

Eat & Drink

When the brunch line at Dottie's snakes around the block, savvy locals head over to Brenda's French Soul Food for a tasty alternative. Chef and New Orleans native Brenda Buenviaje's dishes (crawfish beignets or pineapple upside-down pancakes) might make you skip the stop at Dottie's altogether. At the new Center Stage Deli, our pick from the sandwiches, panini and salads is the Vertigo, with cracked-pepper turkey, jalapeño jack, roasted peppers and horseradish aïoli. For more than three years, Mangosteen (2) has been a mainstay of the four-block stretch of Larkin known as Little Saigon. The variety of fresh and flavorful pho stands out, as do such salads as the banana blossom with baby clams. A favorite among both veggies and carnivores, Golden Era serves fresh vegetarian Asian to a youngish crowd that likes to see and be seen in the sunken dining room. With a nightly DJ and a 2 a.m. bedtime, rocking underground sushi gem Ryoko's serves daily specials along with a selection of delicious sakes. Try the fried-tofu appetizer or the grilled squid. Colibrí's traditional Mexican is accentuated by the lively decor and street-side wall of top-shelf tequilas. Sharing is encouraged, as dishes are served tapas-style alongside hand-shaken margaritas. Olive combines affordable bites—thin-crust pizzas, crispy fish tacos—with both basic and fancy drinks, such as the Ginger-Bite (made with Wasabé sake vodka) or the Spicy Dirty One (a martini with jalapeños). At Pearl's (3), classic American burgers get a Bay Area makeover. Organic Meyer's beef, as well as buffalo and chicken burgers, pair perfectly with sweet-potato fries cooked in trans-fat-free bran oil.

Shop

Both sexes can get groomed at brand-new Public Barber Salon, a "glorified barber shop" that hangs rotating art exhibitions on its broken-mirror walls and hosts live DJ beats on weekends. Since its debut in 2002, Huf has remained the quintessential stop for the freshest sneakers, clothing and skate decks: Check out the Ice Creams and Visvims in all their candy-colored glory. The new street-wear kid on the block, meanwhile, is L.A.-based label The Hundreds (4), whose store's dark cavernous interior forms a fitting backdrop for loud designs inspired by skate, surf, punk and hip-hop culture. The minimalist Silverman Gallery & Look Boutique (5), which moved here in March from Dogpatch, carries clothing, art, jewelry and even rare books. Look for international artists and up-and-coming designers such as House of Holland and Zoe Alexander. When you've finished adorning yourself, turn to Cheeko B—named after owner Kattya Breitenbach's pup—for that matching collar for your pet. You can also find bedding, feeders and a "barkery case" filled with tasty-looking decorated treats. At first, you might mistake Glass Dildo Me for a glass-sculpture gallery until you notice the ... um, specific shape of the art. Owner Samantha Liu gets many of the handblown pieces in her vast collection from local artists, and can even custom-design any color or shape. Floréal (6) provides stunning floral arrangements; unique gifts made from glass, shell and bone; and, yes, even a little artistic taxidermy. When you crave a one-of-a-kind import, wander into the new novelty shop Guruguru. Owner Gabriel Yung ships "whatever is cool" straight from Asia—such as washable, portable USB roll-up keyboards.

Nightlife

When it comes to barhopping, Geary is the new Valencia. It started in 2004, when nightclub innovators Futurebars opened Swig in the old Blue Lamp location, outfitting it like a spacious living room complete with roaring fireplace. Then Rye (7) arrived with its Brian Barneclo paintings, basil gimlets and cage-like outdoor smoker's den. Nightlife fixture Vintage 415 wasn't far behind, offering up a bit of Vegas with the Ambassador: Relax in a black tufted-leather booth beneath crystal chandeliers, pick up your built-in telephone and order a cocktail, burger and fries. Around the corner, Futurebars' unmarked, reservations-only Bourbon & Branch has swiftly reached near-mythic status with its expertly mixed drinks, routinely making national "best bar" lists. In back, the Library is open to walk-ins, and this month, the adjacent Russell's Room opens for private parties.

RUNDOWN

EAT

Brenda's French Soul Food
652 Polk St. 415-345-8100

Center Stage Deli
577 Geary St. 415-440-2097

Colibrí
438 Geary St. 415-440-2737

Golden Era
572 O'Farrell St. 415-673-3136

Mangosteen
601 Larkin St. 415-776-3999

Olive
743 Larkin St. 415-776-9814

Pearl's Deluxe Burgers
708 Post St. 415-409-6120

Ryoko's
619 Taylor St. 415-775-1028

SHOP

Cheeko B
611 Post St. 415-440-1221