Pagan

The sleepy intersection of Clement and 33rd streets may not be a charmed location for a restaurant (it previously housed a branch of King of Thai and, before that, a Thai restaurant called Sarin), but if ever one could make a go of the less-than-ideal location, it ought to be Pagan. Owned by a Burmese couple who came to San Francisco by way of a lengthy stopover in Thailand, Pagan offers a menu neatly divided in two: half Thai dishes, half Burmese. Fans of Burma Superstar will recognize the tea-leaf salad, a samusa soup afloat with falafel (it fiercely rivals the one at Superstar) and an earthy stew of pumpkin and pork. Among the Thai options, the straightforward crispy tofu is likeable, if a little safe; the larb (a classic dish of minced meat liberally seasoned with salty dried shrimp, herbs and fresh lime juice) is particularly fresh and bright. Cheered on by the solicitous staff, who gamely recommend dishes and, when asked, offer information about the political climate in Burma (now Myanmar), you’ll find it hard not to adore Pagan. Plus, in sharp contrast to Superstar, there’s no hour-long wait—yet.

Pagan 3199 Clement St., 415-751-2598.