Eat + Drink

Michael Pollan
52, Author of the upcoming In Defense of Food: An Eater’s Manifesto (Penguin), professor of journalism at UC Berkeley.

Why: A 21st-century Sinclair Lewis, Pollan has, through his writings (see: An Omnivore’s Dilemma), helped open America’s eyes to its food’s origins.

“One thing that I’ve noticed, going around the country, is that there are always a few ten-gallon hats in the audience, and they come up to me and say that [“Power Steer” in The New York Times Magazine] in 2002 is what put their business on the map—ever since that article, they’ve been able to make a living selling grass-fed beef. But what I had to say about grass-fed beef occupied two paragraphs of that article, and those two paragraphs were at the end of an 8,000-word story, so that meant people got to the end of the article. How gratifying that was. I think you have more authority on food issues writing from the Bay Area—look at who the [editors in New York] hire when they want someone to write about food. They hire writers from here. On the other hand, since we have it so easy here, eating locally and finding grass-fed beef, you have to do a reality check. Some places are a food desert. We are so spoiled. That’s in my head when I’m writing.”

Kimberly Egan
50, CEO, the Center for Culinary Development

Why: The Center, a consulting firm working for such brands as Burger King and Kraft, taps into the expertise of San Francisco’s top chefs (most of whom prefer to remain anonymous).

“You know, it’s funny—we forget we know what we know here. Stuff that seems like old news, we bring it up to a client and they’re like, Wow what’s that? The ciabatta breads that are showing up in the quick-service restaurants— [the Center] was really a part of that. We took [clients] to different bakeries, like Acme and Grace Baking, and restaurants that had wonderful bread baskets—this was new news to our clients. Now you see ciabatta on the Wendy’s menu and the Jack in the Box menu. It’s like seeing your baby make it to the stage.”

The Center for Urban Education about Sustainable Agriculture Managers of the Ferry Plaza farmers Market since 1999

Why: The gatekeeper for the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market has become a national role model for its stringent sustainable practices and education programs— and, by default, created a meeting place for the food elite. The customer base—including the city’s best chefs and top food writers—matches the some 75 farmers and 30 vendors; from Star Route to Andante Dairy, some have risen to celebrity status themselves

Pat Kuleto
62, restaurateur and restaurant designer

Why: This fall, Kuleto opened Nick’s Cove, on Tomales Bay, at the same time Farallon and Jardinie?re—two of the restaurants Kuleto co-owns—were celebrating 10-year anniversaries. He’s thinking even bigger for 2008, with Epic Roasthouse and Waterbar both slated for January openings. Who else would dare build neighboring restaurants, from the ground up, on prime waterfront Embarcadero real estate? Epic is right.

Thomas Keller
52, chef and restaurateur

Why: No one American chef has such international name recognition—or the honor of simultaneously holding three Michelin stars at two restaurants (plus another star at the Bouchon in Napa Valley), something only one other chef in the world (Alain Ducasse) can claim. Just the thought of nabbing a reservation at the French Laundry in Yountville or Per Se in NYC continues to make fine-dining junkies giddy.

Jess Jackson
77, founder and owner of Jackson Family Wines

Why: With California’s top family-owned wineries— think Robert Mondavi and Stag’s Leap—gobbled up by giant multinationals, one family’s wine empire stands tall. Not only did Jackson create America’s Chardonnay juggernaut with Kendall-Jackson, he has shrewdly fought for wine quality with all of his brands while other companies cut corners. Note: He’s also bought up 12,000 acres of California’s best wine lands.

Paula Jones
42, director of San Francisco Food Systems

Why: The director of this nonprofit funded in part by the Department of Public Health, Jones has set herself firmly in the civic space, helping to write policy for the city’s food systems, which include everything from hospital food to school lunches. (Thanks to her, every SF farmers market accepts food stamps.) Jones’ ultimate challenge? Balancing the city’s desire to be sustainable with its duty to feed the needy.