The Executioners

“Restaurant years are like dog years,” jokes Andrew McCormack, referring to the toll that operating two SF eateries has taken on him and partner Joe Hargrave—they own two-month-old Laïola as well as Frisson, which McCormack opened in 2004 at the age of 29. The duo has already begun planning restaurants three (downtown) and four (Inner Mission, perhaps). “We are trying to out-execute, not out-innovate,” says Hargrave. “It’s what we call ‘honest concept’—make a restaurant that’s affordable, approachable and real.”

At times, the two, who live a few blocks from each other in Pac Heights, seem more like brothers than business partners, joking easily and frequently reverting to the “we” language that defines a long-term relationship: “We get together with a group of friends every Sunday night and cook,” says McCormack. Adds Hargrave, “Ropa vieja is Drew’s specialty.”

Both are rabid baseball fans, and McCormack admits to having bought an Xbox 360 solely so he and Hargrave could play World Series Baseball. (Andrew loves the Red Sox, while Hargrave roots for the Dodgers.) “Restaurants and baseball are similar,” says Hargrave. “They’re both a game of numbers.”

On a rare night off, you’ll find them at one of their favorite haunts: spooning up espresso granita at Zuni Café, chowing down at Bodega Bistro or enjoying a cocktail at 500 Club while waiting, like the rest of us, for a table at Pizzeria Delfina.

WEB EXCLUSIVE: Q&A

What would you change about SF?
Hargrave: I don’t know—it’s pretty good here. There are flaws, but it’s a pretty wonderful place. I guess if we had to change something, we could get rid of Yelpers. Those people need to get a fucking life.

Hottest thing about living in SF?
McCormack: The open-minded people.
Hargrave: I like the collective philanthropic soul of the city; I feel safe in this town. I think most people do. Most often I feel that San Franciscans strive to do right by humanity and, thus, create one of the world’s more civilized places to in which to live. Peace, sister.
McCormack: The anti-business culture of our Board of Supervisors.

Why do you think we chose you for Hot 20?
McCormack: You like Spanish food.
Hargrave: I’m hoping it’s because you believe in what I’m doing. I have a hell of a lot of passion for this business in a town that craves passion for this business. I love my work. I believe that Andrew and I are onto something. We’ve created a restaurant model that caters to 30- to 50-year-old San Franciscans who care about honest dining. Laïola is casual, affordable, accessible, but without compromising our commitment to local, seasonal and sustainable. Spain is going to blow up in the years to come. It’s already starting. We are so pumped to learn and teach more about this ridiculously locally untapped food culture. It’s either that, or a lot of really interesting people recently turned 40.

Who would you choose for Hot 20?
McCormack: [Photographer] Alissa Everett.
Hargrave: Shelley and Greg Lindgren of [between them] A16, Rye, 15 Romolo and Rosewood Bar. They’re not only very successful but also super-cool, nice and very San Francisco.

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