The 2008 Style Council: The Anti-Hero

Stephanie Syjuco, 34, is bringing new meaning to the term fashion statement. The Stanford MFA has long worked as a visual artist, exhibiting all over the world, but in 2004 she decided to try to step out of the "safe place" of a gallery setting and apply her ideas to the real world. Thus she launched her clothing line, Anti-Factory, for which she does all the sewing herself in her sunny Bayview studio. Using a mix of recycled fabrics, Anti-Factory represents Syjuco's own quirky, arty style—youthful and color-forward. She designs tops and dresses, for example, mixing cotton-jersey and vintage patterns, often with a twist—such as a peephole in an unexpected place. A native of the Philippines (a country with an inordinately high percentage of sweatshop workers), the Bernal Heights resident has long been sensitive to issues of labor and globalization. Of Anti-Factory, she says, "I see it as an extension of my art projects, but I'm not saying everything I do is art. It just seemed like a logical extension of my issues with consumerism." Her recent commentary is called the "Counterfeit Crochet Project," for which she's recruited thrifty DIYers from all over the world to crochet replicas of designer bags they've coveted. The show has traveled to Manila, Beijing and Istanbul, landing this year at the Yerba Buena Center for the Arts. —Sara Deseran

What's it like being a business owner?
I wanted Anti-Factory to work as a business model. It's not a very good business model, though [laughs]. My output is limited to what I can produce, since I do everything myself and keep everything really affordable. I'm idealistic. If the business fails economically, I still like the idea that it's out there as an example.

Do you have any fashion guilt?
The counterfeit project pokes fun, but it also implicates us all. The fashion industry creates, via the media, a desire in all of us. I'm not immune to the seduction at all. We have it in our heads what a luxury item can provide us with—entry into a special club of class and taste.

Own any designer labels yourself?
No, actually. Although when I was in the Philippines last year—they have a big bootleg market—I got a "Louis Vuitton" trash can. It's in my bedroom.

Tips for vintage-clothing shops?
You have to get out of the city. I drive down El Camino off the 101 to Palo Alto or Redwood City, where there's tons of really old-school thrift stores. Savers by the Cow Palace is also great. They have a whole linens area where you can get fabrics, like knits from the 1970s.

What's your personal style?
I've been making myself a lot of shift dresses lately—'60s style, A-line. Really mini minidresses—so mini, I have to wear short shorts under them—paired with some high-heeled nurse's shoes. I'm really glad legs are back.

Vintage Anti-Factory 1970s nylon print and cotton-jersey Theory dress. Anti-Factory scrap metallic-leather Istanbul cuff. Espadrilles, model's own. Hair: Mary Ryan + Veronica Arevalo/Cinta Aveda Institute. Makeup: Christine Littell. Shot on location at the Yosemite lofts in Bayview.