I must admit it: I have a bit of a love affair with Fergus Henderson, the chef of London's St. John restaurant. I've never eaten at his restaurant--which is something of a canteen for the London art set--but I warmed immediately to his cheeky approach to food, as demonstrated in his terrific cookbooks and this series of funny videos on the St. John website (especially "how to eat a donut without licking your lips").

Henderson, together with business partner Trevor Gulliver, are in the process of opening a new hotel in London and are stateside for a pre-opening dog-and-pony show. They'll be in San Francisco next week cooking two special dinners, the first at Incanto on May 11 (reservations are no longer available but they're saving space in the dining room for walk-ins, beginning at 6 p.m.), the second dinner at Chez Panisse on May 12 (reservations for the $100 four course menu can be made by calling 510-548-5525; proceeds go towards the Edible Schoolyard). Rumor has it that Ms. Waters herself may step into the kitchen alongside Fergus to "roast some bones." Both restaurants, happily, will be serving a St. John signature dish of roasted bone marrow with parsley salad.