Dispatch From Pebble Beach Food & Wine: What Bad Economy?
Good morning. Reporting live today from Pebble Beach Food & Wine, a multi-day chef extravaganza taking place at the storied Inn at Spanish Bay, located on 17-mile drive. The event kicked off last night with an absolutely packed wine-and-food reception, where celebrated chefs offered bites of food and wineries poured their best.
Here are my early observations.
Here, there is (almost) no talk of a bad economy. Insulated in a small bubble, the only people talking about tough things are were the chefs, and only when asked (Doug Keane of Cyrus said this last winter was "the worst he's ever seen" up in Sonoma). Guests, for the most part, are the bauble-encrusted, mini-skirt wearing, untouched by downturn type. I did hear one woman, responding to a compliment about her shoes, reply "Well, I got them on sale. You know [sottovoce] te economy."
After first mistaking Daniel Humm's sous chef for Daniel Humm himself (oops) I finally got to chat with Humm, the former chef at Campton Place who is now chef at Eleven Madison Park. Seems he's the toast of the town in New York, with no plans to return. Even Food & Wine editor in chief Dana Cowin praised him, claiming he "has no plans to leave Eleven Madison." The big news at Humm's table (where they were preparing a smoked sturgeon sababyon, served in little shot glasses with chive oil, an immersion circulator on the table behind them) was that they were running very, very low on CO2 chargers for the canisters containing the sabayon. Seems co2 chargers were in high-demand last night--there was nary a pig in blanket to be seen amongst these chef-prepared bites.
Chris Kostow (of Meadowood, recently tapped as one of Food & Wine magazine's best new chefs) was "in the weeds" when I stopped by his table, where he was making, in his words "a crispy pillow, on a pillow, filled with fromage blanc and herbs from the Meadowood garden." Translation: A puffy fromage blanc-filled cracker with a little herb salad on top, presented on a pillow that resembled the kind of thing you'd use for your neck on a long flight. Many people were charmed by this cuteness, except for one man who recoiled from the cracker, clutching his stomach and saying he "couldn't tolerate dairy." Best moment at Chris' table? When a woman involved in the annual Napa Valley Wine Auction approached Chris, paid respects, then asked him if he was married. When he responded that he wasn't, she brazenly pulled her daughter forward by her arm, saying, "Then you should definitely meet my daughter!" Embarrassment ensued.
En route to visit Chris Cosentino, I ran into Thomas Keller (who sat down for an interview with 7x7 recently). He was standing near the beer table, holding a bottle of Stella Artois. It's absolutely no wonder that everyone loves Keller; he is gracious, charming and kind. He's attending the event with chefs from all his restaurants, and I'm about to go to a demo they are preparing, titled, "Lexus brings a moment with Thomas Keller." When I ask him about the funny title of the demo, he just laughs. "That's how they described it?" Yes, I say, and I'm waiting to see what this big moment is all about. "Well, there will be many moments. There will be a whole hour of moments." That's all the chatting we could get in before a big fan approached him, hand outstretched. "There is nothing," said the fan, that warms the heart more than seeing a celebrity chef drink beer."
Up next: A meeting with Chris Cosentino and a full report from "Lexus Brings a Moment with Thomas Keller." Stay Tuned!
under Eat + Drink, Jessica Battilana, chris cosentino, Christopher Kostow, Dana Cowin, Daniel Humm, Pebble Beach Food & WIne
The Big Eat 2012: 100 Things to Try Before You Die
The Big Eat 2011: 100 Things to Try Before You Die
The Big Veg 2011: 50 Vegetarian (Or Vegan) Things to Eat Before You Die
Four Ways To Escape the Cold in Mexico
Jams We Love: Our Weekly Playlists
10 Best Dishes $10 in the Inner Sunset
Rise and Dine: A Guide to Brunch at SF's Best Restaurants
The Best Cheese in SF (Recommendations from Local Cheese Shops)
Refreshingly Unhip: The Best Vanilla Ice Cream in SF
The 20 Best Dishes Under $10 in the Tenderloin & Tendernob
Community Gardens Around the City
Horseback Riding Within 1.5 Hours of SF
Four Awesome Northern California Hot Springs
Refreshingly Unhip: SF's Old-School Pastrami Sandwiches
The 7 Best Carne Asada Burritos in San Francisco
The 10 Best Dishes Under $10 in the Outer Sunset
The 20 Best Dishes Under $10 in the Mission
The 10 Best Dishes Under $10 in Bernal Heights
The 10 Best Dishes Under $10 in the Lower Haight
The 10 Best Lunches in Union Square Under $10
Refreshingly Unhip: The Best Glazed Dougnuts in SF
Expert Advice on Parking in The City
- Pebble Beach Food & Wine: Death Threats and Raw Lamb Heart
- Pebble Beach Food & Wine: Part One Of A Two-Part Throwdown And Tales From The Afterparty
- Pebble Beach Food & Wine: Thomas Keller's Tent Revival
- Pebble Beach Food and Wine: Nice Work If You Can Get It
- Pebble Beach Food and Wine: The Aftermath






