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First Bite: Ebb and Flow

Well, we ought to all be able to agree on one thing: Ebb and Flow has one of the most coveted locations in all of San Francisco. This is some seriously prime real estate, across from Tartine Bakery, down the block from Bi-Rite and Delfina, with giant windows on all sides. When the sun is going down, flooding with room with a sunset glow, and the parade of misfit San Franciscans decamping from Dolores Park crowd amble by, there are few finer seats.

Before becoming Ebb and Flow, the space was Craig's Place, a forgettable waste of a perfect venue. And though the owners haven't changed (Tony and Craig Droplas), they've entirely reconcepted, introducing a casual seafood joint and a new chef, Vincent Schofield, a one-time alum on Boulevard and the opening chef of Sundance Kabuki. I do wish they were taking better advantage of that lovely space, which right now is nothing more then a plain old box of a restaurant, with the new addition of an oversize nautical map of the San Francisco bay, but here's the good news: the food is very nice.

I spent a perfectly lovely Monday night with a glass of crisp white and an excellent crab Louie salad—the mussels weren't half-bad, either, and I had orderer's remorse when I saw the plate of fish-and-chips my neighbor ordered, a large piece of crisped fish set atop a french fry foundation. The biggest problem with Ebb and Flow, probably, is that it has some stiff competition in its neighbors—a simultaneous blessing and a curse. But when you've spent a sun-filled day in the Mission, pretending it's summer on the East coast and reminding yourself you live in a coastal city, Ebb and Flow is there to help you get into the spirit of things.