How Sweet It Is
It’d been three years since I last had brunch at Slow Club (and wrote about it for SF Station), which makes me feel old because I remember that meal like it was yesterday. So I was happy to go back yesterday and be reassured that—even with a chef change and a few years in between—the food remains as good as ever.
A bunch of us piled in to a pick-up and drove to Potrero Hill—which is a hike for us Russian Hillers. Anyway, we all shared the sweet risotto, which in the three years between visits, I’ve thought about constantly. (In all honesty, I probably think about it every other week, on average.) It’s creaminess is cut through with pools of maple syrup and bits of raisins and toasted walnuts—there’s nothing else like it on any other brunch menu in the city. (Or at least that I know of. Am I wrong?)
We had a scare with the French toast, as it's one of their more popular dishes; we just managed to snag the last one. Portion-wise, that’s another dish that should be eaten family-style, because while the rest of us devoured our turkey-sausage hash in a few bites, John only got two-thirds of the way through his three massive slabs of bourbon-soaked bread.
Slow Club’s open for brunch every Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. If you have to wait, order a Bloody Maria at the bar, or an aqua fresca if you’re teetotalling.