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SF Chefs 2012: The Dinner Party Project #3 - Two Chefs, One Beast

7x7 is proud to sponsor SF Chefs, the annual, hotly-anticipated food/wine/spirits bonanza that is the quintessential San Francisco culinary experience. The event occurs July 30th through August 5th, and offers guests exclusive access to the city's most innovative and lauded industry professionals and personalities.

An excellent preview of SF Chefs, the Dinner Party Project, is a unique series of dining events inspired and curated by local chefs who have developed deep friendships and connections in an intense industry: "Whether they meet at the market each week, work in the kitchen side-by-side or just love getting together for late-night adventures, San Francisco chefs share a special bond. Throughout June and July these friends will collaborate for one night only, sharing with diners a glimpse into their friendships, cooking styles and culinary dreams."

Want tickets to a dinner? click here.

Each dinner commences with specialty aperitif using Campari, the project's presenting sponsor. A portion of the proceeds from each dinner benefits the Center for Urban Education and Sustainable Agriculture (CUESA).

Want secret recipes and entertaining tips from these fabulous chefs? Get them here.

On the evening of June 28th, some meat-loving, nay, make that goat-loving diners gathered at One Market for Two Chefs—One Beast, one of the sold-out dinners in the Dinner Party Project. Chefs Mark Dommen (One Market) and Staffan Terje (Perbacco) are two of the city’s best chefs, and are known for their skill with meats, and specifically using the whole animal. Tonight’s meal used three goats from Rossotti Ranch, and the long menu (seven courses!) highlighted many different cuts and techniques.

The evening started with some Campari cocktails and passed hors d’oeuvres in the atrium, followed by the sit-down dinner. I think I managed to choose the most interesting table, with the food-obsessed Russians to my right and the food-obsessed home cooks and avid diners to my left. We had a good time.

Some standout dishes on the menu included the goat leg tartare/carne cruda by chef Terje; the goat mortadella by chef Dommen (which surprised me because Terje is known for being such a salumi maker—way to switch it up, guys); the oh-so-flavorful ragu of goat shoulder that was braised in goat’s whey by Terje; the rather elegant goat “pot au feu” by chef Dommen (the rib was particularly delectable); and the slow-roasted “goatetta” by Terje had our table’s full attention. The chefs not only displayed a lot of creativity with each execution, but they really paid homage to the beauty of each of the cuts. It also stands testament to their cooking chops that we were able to keep our appetite through such an extensive and meaty menu. You could tell how much thought went into each dish.

Dessert was a duo of One Market’s pastry chef Patti Dellamonica-Bauler's goat cheese ice cream sundae with candied pecans and spiced goat’s milk caramel, and Perbacco's goat’s milk jam-filled ricotta doughnuts.

Wine pairings were courtesy of the aptly named Donkey & Goat winery, known for their natural wines (with winemaker Jared Brandt present, who was able to tell us stories behind the unique names of each of the wines).

There are some fantastic upcoming dinners still remaining in the series, check it out here.

 

Marcia Gagliardi is the contributing food editor for 7x7 and author of the weekly Tablehopper e-column and book The Tablehopper’s Guide to Dining and Drinking in San Francisco. Email her at marcia@7x7.com, and read more at tablehopper.com.