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Upper Crust

The openings of Pizzeria Delfina (pizzeriadelfina.com), Little Star (littlestarpizza.com), which recently expanded with a second location in the Mission) and Bruce Hill’s Picco in Larkspur (restaurantpicco.com) in the past year or two had everyone touting SF’s “pizza renaissance.” As an East Coaster—who lived in Italy and in New York City for a few years—I still don’t think most of the ‘za here holds a candle to NYC. I’m not a pizza authority, but most of what I’ve tasted (with some of the exceptions listed above) have been lackluster.

There’s hope, though: Two less-buzzed-about spots are serving great thin-crust pizza that reminds me of the real-deal Italian ones I used to eat years ago. The pizzas aren’t hoity-toity (no house-pulled mozzarella or organic/artisanal toppings) but they have the right amount of sauce and a nice crunch. And, because they’re under the radar, you don’t have to wait to get in.



In Hayes Valley, Il Borgo (themenupage.com/ilborgo.html) serves a superior Quattro Stagione pizza topped with artichokes, prosciutto, mushrooms and olives, and SoMa’s Pazzia makes a paper-thin crust that’s just delicious. My favorites there are the sausage-and-mushroom and prosciutto-and-arugula versions (pictured above). Though it’s low on ambiance, Pazzia is a great spot for a midday lunch of pizza and salad with a glass of Pinot Grigio. I might head over there this afternoon.

Pazzia
337 3rd St.
415-512-1693