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When Love is Not Enough: Pizzeria Delfina #2

There are some things that you just want to love. You want to love it because of the people involved, or because it’s a great idea, or because you know how much thought and care went into making the dream a reality. But no matter how you try, you just can’t love it—at least not like you’d hoped.

I’m sorry to say that this is how I felt about the new Pizzeria Delfina on California Street. As anyone who knows me already knows, I am a huge Delfina booster. I love that little pizzeria on 18th street, despite the crushing popularity that has made a wait just par for the course. I love the stools flanking the open kitchen, the breadsticks and the bustle. I love the food, which always just seems like the perfect version—the perfect roasted cauliflower, the perfect tuna conserva, the perfect pizza.

A Gold Star for Golden Produce

I’d like to point out a little gem of a market on Church Street in Duboce Triangle, across from Safeway. It’s called Golden Produce, and it’s got some of the freshest, best-looking and most affordable vegetables in town, much of them certified organic. We’re talking plump, perfectly shaped eggplant the color of Cabernet and muscular-looking bell peppers that seem to have been airbrushed by Pantone. Even more enticing are the baby vegetables—fingerling potatoes, tiny artichokes, mini-bulbs of bok choy and sunburst squash the size of silver dollars.

Tyler Florence's Peach, Fennel, Mozzarella and Crispy Prosciutto Salad

You see, there's this guy, Tyler Florence. Maybe you've heard of him? Well, you're about to hear a whole lot more, because in addition to his new store in Mill Valley and two new cookbooks, he's also about to open a restaurant in San Francisco, housed in the Hotel Vertigo (and named, of course, Bar Florence), scheduled to make its debut in December. Still, his two cookbooks are filled with simple recipes for make-at-home food and this salad is just the thing to make this weekend, while the weather is warm and before the last few peaches vanish for another season.

Nettie's Crab Shack Opens

Just in time for the opening of Dungeness season next month, Nettie’s Crab Shack debuted on Union Street Tuesday night, in the space that—for about five minutes—house Palmetto. The co-creation of Brian Leitner (who spent five years cooking at Chez Panisse) and Annette Yang (who helped open Spruce, Jack Falstaff and Home, which occupied said space before Palmetto), Nettie’s is done up like a spacious Atlantic beach cottage. You’ll think you’re back in Cape Cod or Ocean City. There’s a patio, picnic tables covered in butcher paper and buckets of beer.


The bar at Nettie's.

Hecho Brings a Questionable Combo: Tequila and Sushi



Yesterday, chef Joseph Manzare of Globe, Zuppa, Joey & Eddy's and Tres Agaves made public his latest restaurant venture: A meeting of the most brilliant minds, so to speak, it's going to be a highend sushi and robata restaurant with a touch of Mexican (a chile here, a pour of nice tequila there kind of thing). The name is Hecho, which means "made" in Spanish—a nod to the fact that his oldest son Max was "made in Mexico," if you know what I mean. Manzare will be opening the restaurant at the beginning of next year sometime, along with his longtime friend and former Spago co-worker, chef Naoki Uchiyama.

The Slanted Peruvian Docks: Pisco Sours all around!


Pisco Sour: The  new margarita? Photo courtesy of David Fukuda

Between Piqueo’s and Limòn, I thought SF had had its Peruvian moment, but apparently, it’s just begun. La Mar Cebicheria Peruana is set to open today; and Pisco, a bar and lounge by Destino chef-owner James Shenk, opens the first week of October. (Oh, yeah, and there’s Limon’s new rotisserie.)

Museum Artifacts: The Moss Room and the Academy Cafe

Yes, I’ll be headed to the amazing, new California Academy of Sciences to marvel at the albino alligator and the suspended blue whale skeleton and the high-tech hand-driers in the bathrooms (a true force of nature).

But I’m to be honest, I think I’ll just let my kids look at the fish while I eat.


Charles Phan stands by the living wall that runs between
his restaurant and Loretta Keller's.

Tours of Four Barrel, Demolicious '08 and Half-Priced Frisee Wines

This Week's Top Eat + Drink Events Around the Bay


photography by Stefanie Michejda

1. Firing on all cylinders

City Barn, Country Barn


Red Barn's offerings: From lemon cucumbers to peppers.
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