Eat + Drink
This is a picture of Martine Saunier, San Francisco's premier wine maven. Last week she held her annual portfolio tasting at the Presidio's Golden Gate Club. In a time when restaurants aren't buying much wine, the shoulder-to-shoulder crowd of wine professionals in attendance was testament to the quality of her lineup of wines and her rock star status. Martine, who just turned 75 a few months ago, just keeps going and, if anything, getting better. (You think Mick Jagger has energy, just try keeping up with Martine.)
Welcome to our partnership with Eater. For this weekly Friday column, Eater editor Paolo Lucchesi gives his opinionated report on all the restaurant news that's fit to print. Among today's topics: the Oscars of the restaurant world, the rise of Oakland, a romantic sunset with George Morrone, and the San Francisco whereabouts of one Mr. Anthony Bourdain.
If anyone has the inside sccop when it comes to the Ferry Plaza Farmers market it's Lulu Meyer, associate director of market operations at CUESA. You'll see her at the market, rain or shine. Every week, she'll be giving us her short list for the market—just in time for Saturday shopping. Go to cuesa.org for more information about farmers, what's in season and market goings-on.
I've always meant to go to Conduit more than I've managed to, which is hardly at all. Might be something about the name: It's always sounded more like a professionally named corporate finance/tech/insurance kind of business (Intuit, Agilent, etc) than a place I'd go to tickle my gastronomic senses. Nevertheless, the other night I made it in for a thorough and overdue visit and found it to live up to all the hype.
Steve Hoffman, the bar manager of Ame Restaurant in the St. Regis Hotel, created this elegant take on the daiquiri. (Velvet Falernum is an allspice liqueur available at Cask Spirits, cask
store.com) Wet the rim of a chilled martini glass with lime juice and dip it in lime zest and sugar.
2 ounces Batiste Rhum
1 ounce fresh lime juice
3/4 ounce Velvet Falernum
Combine everything in a shaker. Shake vigorously and strain into the glass.
1. Vegetative State
This Sunday, March 29, the Underground Food Academy is offering a class with chef Leif Hedendal (formerly of Greens): “Heart of Darkness: Odd Vegetables and their Preparation.” From tonka beans to ancho cress, Hedendal will demystify and prepare these unusual ingredients. The class will culminate with a gourmet vegetarian feast featuring local wines. The cost of meal and class is $70; to reserve your seat click here.
2. Something to Squeal About
You think a trend has reached its peak—and then it just keeps going. Wine bars, fro-yo, pizza. Pizza, pizza, pizza. Pizza. Oh, and by the way, pizza.
Clearly A16, Pizzeria Delfina and Picco weren't pizza enough for us. Chefs with tattoos, fixed gear bikes and 00 flour aren't enough either. The ante has been upped. Now, it seems, you have to actually be Italian or come with papers.
Pretty soon, we suspect, news of KitchenetteSF will be appearing on every blog in town. After all, is there anything this town loves more than ad hoc pop-up restaurants with a DIY edge? Judging by the lines outside of Mission Street Food last Thursday night, we think not. KitchenetteSF is a Monday through Friday lunch-only grab-and-go operation that by the Living Room Events chefs, run out of the LRE's Dogpatch loading dock. They're making one or two options a day which are, mais oui, sustainable, seasonal and local.