Eat + Drink
Beyond a small frenzy over Ella Bella's dry-farmed tomatoes (I saw Italian cookbook author Carol Field buying up bagfuls), this is what my trip to the market last Saturday revealed:
I’m sorry to say that this is how I felt about the new Pizzeria Delfina on California Street. As anyone who knows me already knows, I am a huge Delfina booster. I love that little pizzeria on 18th street, despite the crushing popularity that has made a wait just par for the course. I love the stools flanking the open kitchen, the breadsticks and the bustle. I love the food, which always just seems like the perfect version—the perfect roasted cauliflower, the perfect tuna conserva, the perfect pizza.
I’d like to point out a little gem of a market on Church Street in Duboce Triangle, across from Safeway. It’s called Golden Produce, and it’s got some of the freshest, best-looking and most affordable vegetables in town, much of them certified organic. We’re talking plump, perfectly shaped eggplant the color of Cabernet and muscular-looking bell peppers that seem to have been airbrushed by Pantone. Even more enticing are the baby vegetables—fingerling potatoes, tiny artichokes, mini-bulbs of bok choy and sunburst squash the size of silver dollars.
The bar at Nettie's.
Yesterday, chef Joseph Manzare of Globe, Zuppa, Joey & Eddy's and Tres Agaves made public his latest restaurant venture: A meeting of the most brilliant minds, so to speak, it's going to be a highend sushi and robata restaurant with a touch of Mexican (a chile here, a pour of nice tequila there kind of thing). The name is Hecho, which means "made" in Spanish—a nod to the fact that his oldest son Max was "made in Mexico," if you know what I mean. Manzare will be opening the restaurant at the beginning of next year sometime, along with his longtime friend and former Spago co-worker, chef Naoki Uchiyama.
Pisco Sour: The new margarita? Photo courtesy of David Fukuda
Between Piqueo’s and Limòn, I thought SF had had its Peruvian moment, but apparently, it’s just begun. La Mar Cebicheria Peruana is set to open today; and Pisco, a bar and lounge by Destino chef-owner James Shenk, opens the first week of October. (Oh, yeah, and there’s Limon’s new rotisserie.)
But I’m to be honest, I think I’ll just let my kids look at the fish while I eat.
Charles Phan stands by the living wall that runs between
his restaurant and Loretta Keller's.
photography by Stefanie Michejda
1. Firing on all cylinders