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Eat + Drink

A Once-in-a-Lifetime Wine



Okay, don't hate me. As a member of the wine press, I have to do a lot of odious things: taste vile boxed wines, write tasting notes about wines I don't like, cut my fingers while removing the foil of Champagne bottles and search endlessly for shops that sell the wines I really want to write about. [Ed.: Life’s tough, Mackay.] So it's only fair that once in a while I get to do something fun.

7 Food Finds

1. Celebrating the Sourpuss
Yuzus, kishus, and mandarinquats—oh my!  With winter well underway, so is citrus season. Make reservations for Manresa’s Citrus Modernista Dinner on Tuesday, February 26 for a multi-course meal ($140 pp) featuring the bounty of the restaurant’s garden in the Santa Cruz Mountains.

2. Choc it Up

Michael Tusk's Mind

I'm in the midst of working on a feature story for our April issue, and I don't think it's giving away too much to tell you that in the course of researching the piece I've been spending a lot of time with Michael Tusk, the chef/owner of Quince restaurant. I'd even like to think that in the course of these last few weeks, we've forged something of a nascent friendship. Today, in the midst of a spirited discussion about spring's finest ingredients, Mike grabbed my notebook and started sketching out his vision for a tribute to asparagus, a four-part dish that will likely debut on his tasting menu within the next few months.

Chocolate for Haters


Be mine: Charles Chocolates Triple
Chocolate Almonds.


I’m not a romantic, at least in the conventional sense. Valentine’s Day? Whatever.

My apathy is a good thing, though. It serves me well when the romantic forecast is cloudy and gray.

I'm similarly indifferent about the two things that come with February 14: red roses and chocolate. Give me dahlias, tulips or ranunculus; coconut, lemon or caramel. I've learned to steer clear of this conversation in the company of other women, though. Just saying no to chocolate is like an affront to the sisterhood.

Q&A with Yoshi's GM Andrew Generalao


Andrew Generalao, GM of Yoshi's San Francisco
Photo courtesy of John A. Benson Photography

Yoshi's was just awarded 3 stars from the Chronicle. Has your job just gotten harder, or are you able to breathe a bit easier now?

7 Food Finds


Happy Year of the Rat!

Check out these 7 things—all happening this week.

1. You calling me fat?: Fat Tuesday’s today, so join in the debauchery at Townhall and then plan your 40 days of meat-free living. For inspiration, check out Millennium’s Eric Tucker, who’s doing a cooking demo and signing his latest book The Artful Vegan on Saturday at 11:15 a .m. at the Ferry Building Marketplace.

The Little Things



One thing I love about Neyah White's operation at NOPA is the care and attention he pays to the less heralded aspects of cocktail craft. Sure he cares about the base spirits, fresh fruit juices, and interesting herbs and spices. But the things most loves seem to be the liqueurs, bitters and tinctures that don't get all the same attention. Most of them he makes by himself, which is why it was a treat to get a tour of his own personal cellar space in NOPA's cramped store room, where his magical infusions and marinations all happen.

Fish and Farm



Had a chance to stop by and see the new culinary team at Fish and Farm, Charlie Kleinman and Jake Des Voignes. You might remember that these two were the old culinary team that cooked a memorable meal last year back at the Fifth Floor. I was glad to see that the two had returned with such flair at a small downtown restaurant that bustles with an animated energy, yet preserves a sense of intimacy and discretion.
   

Aye, Capt'n



I found this bottle of Capt'n Eli's Root Beer at Faletti's and, since I'd never heard of it, snapped it up and took it home to try. I certainly loved the maritime label of the kid rowing with the parrot on his shoulder, and it makes sense knowing that the producer is in Portland, Maine (a very fine town) and called Shipyard Brewing Co.
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