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Eat + Drink

New Zuni Wine Director



I love Zuni Café and could happily eat there every day of my life—if someone wouldn’t mind subsidizing me.

With the golden light that reflects off the towering white walls and the white paper tablecloths, the ambiance inside is wonderful. Furthermore, the food is consistently very good. The worst I ever have is something that doesn’t make me say “wow,” or perhaps a slightly overcooked chicken. Usually, everything is delicious. While in the past there have been some service issues, in the last couple of years I’ve had nothing but exemplary, warm service.

Saving the World

What does sustainability mean to you?

That was the question posed to these panelists on Sunday morning at the Gastronomy by the Bay roundtable entitled Organic Farming and the Food Chain.


Sustainability panel

Organic farmer, Andy Griffin, Mariquita Farm
Organic winery owner Julie Johnson, Tres Sabores Winery (organic since 1990) Julie Johnson

Gastronomy by the Bay

I worked over Labor Day Weekend, but when work requires that one eat and drink and be merry, the line gets blurry.


Cooking demos outside the Ferry Building Marketplace

This weekend was the Gastronomy by the Bay event—the first international culinary event that brings together chefs and press from North America and Europe. I attended two of the three roundtables—one on sustainability, organic farming and the food chain and the other on gastronomic guides and the Internet.

Vacation Hangover

As hangovers go, it’s my opinion that the worst kind is not from Champagne or tequila, but rather from vacation. Even if you enjoy your everyday life and your work is your passion, the transition from all things new and exciting back to the same old (albeit good) thing takes some adjustment.

Like an alcohol-related hangover, the best cure is the hair of the dog—in this case, more traveling. Since most of us can’t ask our bosses for time off right after returning, the next best alternative is to treat yourself to your favorite vacation-like activities in your own hometown. The best thing about doing this is that you know all the good spots to hit.

Seattle vs. SF

Like many of us, I tend to think of Northern California as the culinary womb of the country—the place where perfect produce is grown, organic chickens run free and bold Cabernets outshine those watery vintages they produce in France. But a recent trip to Seattle instilled a seed of doubt about our status as the capital of all things fresh and local.

No “R” in August



Despite the fact that there’s no “r” in August, the oysters at Hog Island Oyster Company were sure tasting good. Some people like to drink Guinness with their oysters, others prefer Sauvignon Blanc, Champagne or even sake. For me there is one wine for oysters that stands above all others: Muscadet. And thank goodness Hog Island always keeps one on their menu. Fresh, bright, citrus and mineral—it’s the one wine that reliably matches oysters point for point.

Bite or Flight

A few days ago in the office we coined a new phrase (credit to our A&E editor, Melissa Goldstein, must be given): Bite or Flight. I was describing an experience that happens to me when I’m dining out. Full of expectation and anticipation, I sit down in a new restaurant, eagerly open the menu and then…wish that I had chosen a different place to have dinner.

Basil and Booze: The Perfect Summer Combo

Bartenders have been playing around with fresh herbs lately, so I decided to try my hand at it, using basil from my parents garden up in Sonoma, the handle of a wooden spoon as my muddler and some citron vodka as a start. From there, I looked for inspiration on Hangar One’s website, where they have a whole bevy of good cocktail recipes. My final—very popular, I might add—concoction was based on SF bartender David Nepove’s recipe called The Retreat. The only difference is that I only swirled each glass with a good dash of Pernod (the anise-flavor of Pernod perfectly reflects the basil), rather than go for a full ounce. I also added a bit of cointreau to the shaker. If you serve it on the rocks, top with club soda as Nepove does.

A Shower and a Beer

After the El Tesoro tequila anniversary party and the Family Winemakers tasting, my poor liver was more than ready for some serious detox; but the beer-drinking gods, however, had different plans.


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