Eat + Drink
Last week I had a tasting and dinner at Frisson with Charles Braastad of the esteemed Cognac House Delamain. Braastad is half Norwegian, though he’s lived his whole life in France, and his family still owns Delamain. A tall, thin and handsome man, he seems a bit stiff and formal at first, but quickly reveals his lively sense of humor and native charm.
Anyway, Delamain is one of the smaller houses in Cognac to achieve such worldwide acclaim. Their style is fine, elegant and balanced. The various bottlings wow you with finesse and complexity—not with power, fruit and oaky richness.
By root on October 22, 2007 9:26 AM
It's that time of year...
Photo courtesy of Stan Grossfeld/Boston Globe
I’m quite certain that I’m the only person on our editorial staff who cares about baseball. My boss thinks I’m joking when I say I might have to move around my schedule in order to catch some of the upcoming Red Sox v. Rockies World Series. I know, I know, we’ve got a magazine to put out—but hello! Red Sox in the Series?! Where’s the nearest big screen?
By root on October 17, 2007 4:13 PM
As we close in on the end of the week, I’ve found a new way to waste time. You can thank me later. A friend just sent me a link to Fridgewatcher.com, a website that features nothing but pictures of refrigerators from around the world and their contents. You could submit a photo of your own fridge; there’s even a spot to leave a brief manifesto on the contents. I only wish the people submitting images were a bit better at IDing their items—the American fridges are easy, of course (though I must admit I had forgotten about the existence of Juicy Juice), but I’m stumped when it comes to the fridges of Sweden, Kenya, Amsterdam. What are all those mysterious condiments?
I took this shot outside of Golden Boy Pizza in North Beach. The photo is not the greatest—as I sort of just snapped it as I was walking by—but I like its Hopper-esque feel. And I like its evocation of counter dining—one of my favorite ways to eat. There’s nothing like a beer and a slice at a crowded counter late at night.
Golden Boy Pizza
542 Green Ave.
After several months of trying, I finally made it by my friend David White’s new (less than a year old) restaurant and wine bar Nua.
First of all, chef Anna Bautista’s menu was really excellent: we dined happily on such things as grilled octopus and chickpea salad, piquillo peppers stuffed with brandade and sardines with an eggplant caponata.
But what I’ve always admired about David White is his palate and his enthusiasm for the often overlooked wines of the world. He has a nose for well-balanced, interesting and—most important—well-priced wines. His list is full of them.
More famous as the classic vinous accompaniment to oysters than as a wine in and of itself, Muscadet has a fairly shoddy reputation. Most people consider Muscadet to be a bland, light-drinking, unmemorable wine. And—to be fair—most Muscadet is exactly that.
But there are exceptions. And this wine is one of them. Domaine de l'Ecu is probably the best producer in the region, making fully biodynamic wines that are true wines of minerality and terroir. The Domaine’s owner, Guy Bossard, makes three wines, each expressive of a different soil type: granite, gneiss and orthogneiss.
Grilled okra with miso aioli
I’ve never liked okra, until now. It could be because the only okra I’ve ever really tried has been greased up and deep-fried—and fried food rarely appeals to me. So, the other day when I went to Namu and my friend insisted I try their grilled okra, I (very) grudgingly agreed.