It's hard to avoid the mild feelings of skepticism that accompany the opening of anything that seems like it might be putting on airs—particularly in San Francisco, particularly when a certain someone is telling us that we need economic stimulating. But, then, well...wait just a second. When Le Club opens today it may well exceed our expectations. Though it is a reservation-only restaurant and bar (yes, that means that even if you just want a cocktail you have to plan ahead...sorry, casual Californians), it's interior is more old-fashioned lounge than new slick club: intimate, sleek and polished, with marble floors, an onyx bar and a billiards room. I mean, when was the last time you were in a billiards room? (Mine was a recent tour of the jaw-dropping Hearst Castle in San Simeon. That WR Hearst knew how to party). Plus, it's the latest from Gina Milano and Todd Traina, people who, it could be argued, know how to throw a party.

And, I just learned that the chef is one Bob Cina, who hails from a restaurant called Chez Henri in Cambridge, Massachusetts, my old home town. (Hey Bob, remember me?) Bob is a great guy and a good cook, and if there is someway he's able to shoehorn the cuban sandwich from the Chez Henri menu onto the Le Club menu, then I will happily make reservations (though I have no aversions to his other purported offerings, fondue, escargot, caviar and lobster pot pie among them).

Go on, you know you want to—make a reservation, and don't be discouraged when you arrive at 1250 Jones (at Clay) only to discover that the building looks more like a fancy apartment building then a's all part of the mystery, and the intrigue. And even I can't be skeptical about that.