Soulful artworks, hanging plants, and pops of color lend irie vibes to this new Jamaican hot spot. (Courtesy of Kaya)
First Taste: Punch Bowls, Jerk Chicken + Irie Times at Jamaican Hot Spot Kaya
06 February 2018
The evolution of Mid-Market continues with another change-up: Say seeya later to Daniel Patterson's Alta CA (reopening soon in Yotel and still serving at Minnesota Street Project), and what's up to his Jamaican-inspired Kaya.
Now, if you're thinking that Patterson, the chef/owner behind California-centric Alta and the three-Michelin-starred tweezer-chic fine dining establishment Coi, may not be the guy to bring us authentic Caribbean eats, you'd probably be right. But no savant reaches the top of any field without knowing when to seek help from a more learned sage.
For Kaya, Patterson tapped Jamaican-born chef Nigel Jones, whose Kingston 11 restaurant is well known by Oakland foodies who make it a regular stop for fall-off-the-bone oxtail stew (so good, it easily nabbed a spot on 7x7's Big Eat Oakland) and the irie vibes that are quintessential to Jamaica (go on a Friday night and you may find yourself at a dinner-slash-DJ-dance-party).
Put the two chefs together and the menu is, naturally, a fusion of modern Jamaican recipes prepared with high-quality Californian ingredients—think caramelized plantains, Mary's Organic jerk chicken and, of course, that oxtail stew. But no culinary escape to the islands would be complete without tropical drinks, and beverage director Aaron Paul pulls this off in the form of rum-centric cocktails with a focus on Caribbean liquors and spices. Lush plants, Caribbean artwork, and vintage movies complete the picture.
In the development of Kaya, Jones found himself reminiscing on his time spent entirely elsewhere, taking inspiration from the traditions of Asia where mealtime is an intimate communal experience. Here he hopes to celebrate food, yes, but to also be the local place where we can meet and catch up with our families and friends.
// 1420 Market St. (Civic Center), kayasf.com.
(Courtesy of Kaya)
Hanging plants, ambient light, and ample bar seating make Kaya a choice spot for dinner and drinks.
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(Sarah Chorey)
Plantains are required eating at any Jamaican meal and Kaya doesn't disappoint. These little caramelized nuggets are paired with sour cream and pureed black bean dip for a sweet and savory treat.
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(Sarah Chorey)
Begin your meal with a small plate such as the salt fish fritters with a generous helping of chimichurri.
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(Sarah Chorey)
While natural inclination may lead you to order the slow-cooked meats and rice—hey, it's Jamaican food—the vegetarian black pepper spiced tofu is definitely worth a try even if you aren't a vegetarian. The balance of ginger and soy over jasmine rice make this dish a sleeper hit.
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(Sarah Chorey)
Also packing sweetness are the caramelized carrots with chunks of squash, pine nuts, pomegranate molasses, and ginger.
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(Sarah Chorey)
When you venture into the big eats phase of the menu, be aware, Kaya means business. The on-the-bone oxtail stew will sate any belly with a heaping savory pile of kidney beans, rice and plantains.
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(Courtesy of Kaya)
Another classic done well: Kaya's is the jerk chicken is made with Mary's Organic Chicken and emboldened with a blend of garlic, chipotle, black pepper, cayenne pepper, and cinnamon.
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(Sarah Chorey)
Don't leave Kaya without dessert. Fans of Alta CA's trademark soft serve will be happy to see it reincarnated here with a twist: a swirl of slightly spicy vanilla, drizzled with caramel sauce and studded with rum-soaked raisins. But the star of the sweets list is the Jamaican black cake, a dense saccharine treat that oozes rum, molasses, and spice with a dollop of light, house-made cream.
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(Sarah Chorey)
The floor-to-ceiling bar is stocked with irie spirits and offers a glimpse into the semi-open kitchen.
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(Sarah Chorey)
Rum, it's what's for drinks. Try the Rude Boi, a blend of white rum, soursop, Midori and essence of cucumber, available as a single cocktail or as a punch bowl for four.
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