Five New-School Bakeries to Try Right Now


San Francisco has seen a mini-boom in the pastry realm over the last year, and this week's debut of the much anticipated 20th Century Cafe, from former Range pastry chef Michelle Polzine, is just one of a bunch of new places you ought to check out, assuming you enjoy sweets and you eat carbs.

20th Century Cafe

Polzine's new Hayes Valley bakeshop and cafe, open as of Saturday, is her tribute to the patisseries of the Danube region in Europe, and will feature baked goods similar to those you might find in Vienna or Prague. She makes her own bagels (see above), and will also be offering things like rugelach, hamentaschen, Russian coffeecake, fruit tarts, and knishes. Hours are 10 am to 6 pm. 198 Gough Street at Oak. [Inside Scoop]

b. patisserie

Pastry chef Belinda Leong cut her teeth at Michelin-starred places like Manresa before branching out on her own. She specializes in excellent viennoiserie (croissants and kouign ammans), as well as perfect cakes and whimiscally flavored macarons. Also available at the cafe are sandwiches, tartines, and breads from Michael Suas of Thorough Bread fame. 2821 California Street at Divisadero

Le Marais Bakery

The Marina shouldn't be left out of the new bakery trend, and so it's up to baker Justin Brown and pastry chef Phil Ogiela (Aziza, Presidio Social Club) to pick up the slack at that end of town with their new venture, Le Marais, which just opened last week. Look for a selection of tartlets, madeleines, cakes, turnovers, and confections, as well as croissants and a variety of traditional breads made with all organic ingredients. 2066 Chestnut Street at Steiner. [Eater]

The Mill

The aptly named Josey Baker helped open this co-venture with Four Barrel Coffee earlier this year, and it's already one of the most popular spots on the rapidly gentrifying Divisadero corridor. Expect some excellently crusty, yeasty breads to come out of his oven every day, as well as a small selection of great cookies and pastries to accompany coffee. (You can also find his breads for sale at the nearby Bi-Rite.) 736 Divisadero at Fulton

Tout Sweet

It's been ten months since the debut of Yigit Pura's impressive patisserie on the third floor of Macy's Union Square, and it remains a standout in the local sweets universe. Where Craftsman & Wolves is Mission-modern, and b. patisserie is contemporary French, Tout Sweet is all whimsy and bright colors, modeled after Pura's favorite places in Paris. Along with homemade marshmallows, salty chocolate-chip cookies, ham-and-cheese "pop tarts," and fun flavors of macarons, Pura specializes in unique petit gateaux, like the La Vida Pura, a flourless coconut cake layered with candied pineapple and passion fruit custard. 170 O'Farrell Street, 3rd Floor

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