Lately the humble egg, normally reserved for breakfast, has gotten a lot of play at the dinner table at some of the city's best restaurants. In fact, one of the best creations I'd tasted last year was Vernon Morales' poached egg with bacon ice cream at the unfortunately-now-shuttered Winterland.

Just the other night, I was at Zuppa in SoMa and had another egg-cellent dish (pardon the pun): My friend and I were sent out a small portion of lightly scrambled eggs with just a touch of shaved truffles atop a thin piece of toast. The truffle flavor was light enough not to overpower the entire dish, and the eggs retained a silky texutre. If only we could start every meal—breakfast, lunch and dinner—that way.

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