Life in the Meatropolis
We just put the finishing touches on our December/January issue (well, actually, we’re still in the final throes—our executive editor just passed around the cover for our review). For the upcoming food feature, Sara Deseran and our former intrepid intern, Roxanne, dug deep into the world of meat, researching charcuterie at restaurants all over town. Our definitive guide demystifies the offerings—a good read, to be sure. In the meantime, I’ve been researching a story about steakhouses for our cityguide, a purse-sized bi-annual guide with comprehensive listings on where to shop, eat, drink and play. In other words, things have been a bit protein heavy over here.
In the midst of it all, a great book arrived on my desk: British chef Fergus Henderson’s Beyond Nose to Tail. His first book, Nose to Tail Eating, was an homage to all the nasty bits—the venison liver, the pigs ears, the tripe. His second book talks about the rest: puddings, breads, salads, doughnuts. Well, there’s a pig ear or two snuck in there. But it’s a delightful read, really, British is the best sense, and even Henderson’s preface is wonderful, especially the part where he writes, “the perfect recipe manages to steady and uplift at the same time.”
The website is equally delectable—go there to watch funny videos, like “Disciplining the Little Gems,” “Jumping for Joy” and my favorite, “ Eating a doughnut.”