EATS: The preparations are simple yet elegant. A starter of a fluffy, custard-like Parmesan budino is topped with strips of fried butternut squash, and wide noodles of house-made pasta are coated in a marsala-and-foie-gras cream sauce with shavings of black truffle. Entrées, from crisp-skinned sea bass with spicy eggplant to pancetta-wrapped scallops with butter beans and parsley purée, are also luxurious. The award-winning wine list from co-owner and affable host Giancarlo Paterlini is superb.