Roland Passot, the chef-owner who’s been behind the stove here since 1988, creates such sophisticated dishes as fragrant pumpkin soup poured tableside over chestnut confit and spiced marshmallows, duck consommé with foie gras tortellini a must-order pan-roasted sturgeon on soft braised leeks with oxtail-stuffed calamari. The grand finale is the Sunset, a warm bittersweet-chocolate fondant with a surprise inside: a filling of vanilla ice cream and brandied dried fruit that oozes out when you take your first bite.