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SCENE:

Named after an ancient horse race still run annually in the town square of Asti, a city in Italy’s Piedmont region, Palio is decked out with medieval flags and painted murals. Suits from nearby offices drop in at lunchtime for the colorful surroundings and midrange Italian eats.

EATS:

An appetizer of broiled scallops floats on a creamy sea-urchin foam, while a four-mushroom pizza gets an upgrade with heady truffle oil. The fedelini con granchio—fine spaghetti with Dungeness crab meat, San Marzano tomatoes and Calabrese chiles—is hearty but not overpowering. Affordable Italian wines, house-made biscotti and well-prepared espresso are reasons to linger.

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