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SCENE:

This is the Four Seasons, after all, so you can expect a certain level of pleasant opulence. The superbly trained staff is gracious and thoughtful without seeming at all obsequious, and the room has all the subdued “grown-up” elegance you’d expect from a hotel restaurant of this caliber. Situated on the fifth floor, tables by the huge windows provide a cinematic view of the Market Street bustle down below.

EATS:

Taken together, the phrases “steak and seafood” and “hotel restaurant” might have you picturing bland cuisine served up with an exorbitant price tag. But the reimagined surf and turf offerings at Seasons sparkle. A flawless 16-ounce rib eye, cooked on the bone, is the platonic ideal of steak: Rich, well-marbled and perfectly cooked, it comes with your choice of lighter-than-average side dishes, including grilled asparagus and mushrooms sautéed with sherry.

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