Imagine bare-bones dining, and then lower your standards a notch or two. There’s nothing particularly nice about the two rooms that make up SDK, but atmosphere is hardly the point. Try to overlook the cramped tables, unflattering lighting and far-from-everything location. Here, it’s all about the food, which is excellent.
For fans of Shanghai soup dumplings, the search for the perfect specimen is never-ending. We’re happy to report that the version served at Shanghai Dumpling King, gingery ground pork enclosed in tender steamed dough, is very fine indeed. The spicy wontons, swimming in a peanut sauce, are another reason to visit. Shredded pork with dry bean curd is a masterful take on a stir-fry, the bits of pork and bean curd cut to the same size, and eggplant with garlic sauce, the perennial favorite, is exceptional here. At the end of your meal, flag down the woman circulating with eggy mounds of fried dough generously dusted with sugar.
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