A few days ago the wine critics of the Rupert Murdoch-owned, reliably patriotic Wall Street Journal posted a highly critical, take-no-prisoners, anti-American piece called "No Flag-Waving for U.S. Chardonnay." I'm not kidding, it was vicious. Take a look: "U.S. Chardonnay, especially under $20, has been lousy for a long time now . . . over the past several years, we have been outraged—that’s not too strong a word—at the junk that’s selling for up to $20. It has little real fruit, far too much oak flavor and harsh tastes. Too often, it has reminded us of fingernail polish that has been mixed with oak chips while it aged in the tank truck along the highway." Ouch!