Chris Kronner, 27,
executive chef, Bar Tartine
Anthony Strong, 27,
executive chef, Locanda
Chris Kronner and Anthony Strong might be the envy of every chef in town. They rein over two of the city’s most nationally acclaimed kitchens: Anne and Craig Stoll’s Pizzeria Delfina and Elisabeth Prueitt and Chad Robertson’s Bar Tartine. Strong is transitioning to be executive chef of Locanda, Delfina’s new Roman restaurant at Valencia and 16th streets. It has a hopeful January opening, as does the expansion of Bar Tartine, which will include a stand-alone bakery for Robertson’s breads. Now that they’ll be next-door neighbors, Kronner and Strong will share something less glamorous—an alleyway trash area.
There is so very little to celebrate the last Monday in February. Long weekends behind us for the foreseeable future, the weather still not quite cooperating, caught between winter food and spring food. In other words, I know you don't have plans on February 22, so you should certainly plan to attend EAST MEATS WEST, a collaborative rabbit themed dinner cooked (and hosted) by Bar Tartine chef Chris Kronner and Sean Rembold, chef of Diner in Brooklyn. Meatpaper has spearheaded the collaboration, and this is the second in a series (the first was hosted at Diner back in November). This is truly a once-in-a-long-while happening and promises to be a fun and festive evening.
Last night at the CUESA Sunday Supper I learned the following: that Gialina owner Sharon Ardiana is opening a new restaurant (though she doesn't have a space yet), that Mark Dommen's next whole beast meal will be devoted to suckling pig, that Bar Tartine will serve housemade English muffins when they open for breakfast in three weeks (and that chef Chris Kronner isn't sleeping much).
The Kronner era has commenced at Bar Tartine. Five days in and the ex-Serpentine and Good Evening Thursday chef is now installed at the Mission restaurant, filling the shoes of former chef Jason Fox (who, it should be noted, is a very fine chef who we hope will end up someplace good, and soon). Chris and I are old friends, so I paid him a visit last night to see how he's settling into his new post. In the last few weeks the restaurant, which has always been one of my favorite spaces in the city, has undergone a minor makeover—now, groupings of framed art (including some by owner Elisabeth Prueitt's father) hang from the walls—the overall effect is bistro-like and charming.
Ordinarily, I am no fan of gimmicky when it comes to eating and drinking. I do not like waiting in line, passwords, secret phone numbers or bars with unmarked phone numbers. So when I heard that a group of chefs and front-of-the-house people, led by chefs Chris Kronner and Danny Bowien (formerly of Serpentine and Farina, respectively) were opening a pop-up Thursday-nights-only supper club in the private room of Bruno's (the unfortunately named "Pussycat Lounge") I feared for the worst. (Full Disclosure: I worked at Chez Panisse with several of the people involved in this project).