It’s well known among food folk that the barometer for any legitimate pizza place is the quality of the margherita—the Italian original, purported to have been created in celebration of its 19th century Queen by the same name as a culinary representation of the Italian flag, is the classic pie distilled down to its most essential parts: tomatoes, mozzarella, and basil.
There’s only one possible reaction upon first seeing Jon Darsky’s pizza truck: Whoa. Hitched to a mighty rig that weighs 14 tons, Del Popolo begins serving Neapolitan pies this spring from its 5,000-pound oven. This much muscle comes at a cost—over $180,000 in all. The good news: Del Popolo is inimitable. “You’d have to be a fool to try and copy it,” says Darsky. “This thing was f*cking expensive.” Here, a few of the highlights.