Despite its mischievous-sounding name, the deviled egg is about as obedient as you can get when it comes to the text-book American appetizer spread—right up there with spinach dip and brie wrapped in layers of warm puffed pastry. But when you think about it, whoever came up with the idea to take the yolk out of a hard-boiled egg, mix it up with spices and mayonnaise, and then put it back into the original egg white, was really rather clever. These days, as food costs continue to rise and diners continue to seek out familiar, comforting flavors, the deviled egg makes sense in a restaurant on many levels. So when chef Adam Carpenter's new menu for Jasper's Corner Tap came out with an eyebrow-raising trio of plays on the deviled eggs, I really should've been surprised.
The clowns have left the building. On our last visit to this Columbus Avenue burger joint—which was soon after the Myth folks took over and changed its name from Clown Alley to Pickles—the burgers were terrific, but some of those creepy clowns still lurked about the place. Now, restaurant designer Michael Brennan has done his magic and, along with adding upholstered booths and a gas fireplace, has banished the Ronalds.