hodo soy beanery
Emeryville’s Hodo Soy Beanery’s spicy yuba strips are made of the delicate and creamy sheet that forms on the top of heated soymilk. The strips are then marinated in spicy teriyaki sauce and pan-fried. Serve them warm with a nice cold Asahi. $5 at Rainbow Grocery, 1745 Folsom St., 415-863-0620.
I was having dinner the other night with one of the former cooks from Greens restaurant—Greens from back in the day, right after Deborah Madison left to go to Santa Fe. We were talking about its slightly scandalous, Zen Center, hippie past and what has grown out of it. I've often thought about how the free-loving movement (which really encompassed Chez Panisse too) has made "California cuisine" what it is today to a large extent. The farm-centric menus. The tofu.
Of course, most hippie values are old-fashioned values you see in back-to-the-land movements. Farmers are not the hot new thing, for the record. Nor are fresh chicken eggs or composting.