Il Cane Rosso
If refined four-star cuisine is the yin to rustic Italian cooking’s yang, then Mission District resident Lauren Kiino is perfectly balanced. Kiino—Delfina’s chef de cuisine for eight years—moved on in 2007 to stage at French Laundry and Daniel Patterson’s Coi. Patterson and Kiino hit it off—enough to open three restaurants together. Il Cane Rosso joined the Ferry Building last year and the duo’s upcoming restaurants are in Oakland: Plum, which will be small and modern, debuts this summer and Bracina, a larger, California restaurant, has a TBD opening date in Jack London Square.
“At Nihon [Whisky] Lounge, I go for a glass of Scapa. It’s a great way to finish up the night.”
No longer in a pre- or post-holiday stupor, we finally feel we've got the clarity to reflect on a year of eating. It took some sifting through our notebooks, some brain jogging, some staring off into space: And then it all came back to us with the shocking clarity that only memories of delicious meals can conjur up. Some of these dishes are from new restaurants, and some from old favorites. Either way, they all defined a moment.
JESSICA'S TOP 10
Just over a month ago, a devastating fire wreaked havoc on Soul Food Farm, a 55-acre chicken and egg farm situated in Vacaville. Flames engulfed the trees, the old 1880's barn burned to the ground, and more than 1,000 baby chicks died as a result. Firefighters were able to put a stop to the burning before more animals were killed, but the damage was already done.
I like to consider myself somewhat hard to get, at least culinarily speaking. But at Cane Rosso, the collaboration between Coi's Daniel Patterson and Lauren Kiino, formerly of Delfina, I turned to putty. Because this little Italian-style rotisserie/sandwich shop just gets it all right. First of all, the Ferry Building space—formerly occupied by Mistral—is beautiful and breezy, and while you're ordering you can watch meat turning on slowly on a spit, see cooks assembling salads and otherwise geek out by looking at dishes of cherry tomato conserva, spouted copper cans of olive oil and bountiful displays of farm-fresh peaches. You know, if you're into that kind of thing.