It's asparagus season if you haven't noticed. Saturday morning, I started at Nopa with a shaved asparagus and pea shoot salad tossed with grilled thin slabs of Bodacious cheese. The next day, I was at Zero Zero diving into a heaping plate of asparagus, charred from the grill, tossed with black garlic and glistening with olive oil. That was brunch. When I wandered into the produce aisle to buy ingredients for dinner last night, asparagus spears as thick as broomsticks stared me down.
When I'm freezing, I don't venture very far for food. Fortunately, Locavore is two blocks away from my apartment in Bernal Heights. Though the exterior looks a bit like a dance club, the restaurant's chef Jason Moniz and partners Mario Duarte and Cesar Ascarrunz have lovingly crafted a sophisticated and welcoming space that's downright cozy. There's a wooden community table in the center, lots of candlelight, black and white photos of pigs, and chicken-wire light fixtures that could be hokey, only it's not. A gray concrete ceiling and floor adds a touch of modernity.