I live in Potrero, where Jocelyn Buelow reigns and tacos are hard to find. So the entire neighborhood's been abuzz about Papito, Buelow's little "organic Mexican bistro" on Connecticut, just around the corner from his Chez Maman and Chez Papa on 18th. Its cute windowfront and cheery signage appeared way back in spring, but it remained closed due to permit issues until a few weeks ago and, true to form, last night there were people waiting to sit down at one of only two dozen seats.
I will admit right up front that I have—well, had—a bias against cashew cheese. A strong, baseless bias against food items that call themselves something they are not: tofu posing as ice cream, seitan posing as sausage. I also have a strong bias against hemp parkas, for obvious reasons. But last night, at Gracias Madre, I experienced both hemp parkas as well as cashew cheese, and here I am to tell the tale.
I'm not even a huge churro fan. I like fried dough, sure, but given a choice of desserts it wouldn't top my list. But the churros at Chilango, which opened earlier this fall on the site of the forgettable Aztec Taqueria at Church and Market, are so good that they make the other very good food that you might order before dessert almost pale in comparison. With their crisp exterior, just-cooked almost custardy interior and generous dusting of granulated sugar and Mexican cinnamon, these set the gold standard.
It might be freezing and rainy, the economy might still suck, but it looks like the sun will come out tomorrow—or next year, rather—in the form of margs and tacos. We can't argue with that.
In the past few years I've heard of other ballparks in America serving "gourmet" fare—sushi in Seattle, Cuban sandwiches in Miami, fish tacos in San Diego. At AT&T Park the food has historically been pretty standard—hot dogs, garlic fries, beer. But starting on Monday, opening day, there's a new game in town. Tres Agaves has taken over the three concession stands formerly leased by Compadres, so eating at the game is about to get a lot better. What's in store?
Nachos, made with housemade chips, real cheese sauce (no Whiz), pico de gallo and Tres Agaves' legendary carnitas.
Taco trios (your choice of chicken or pork)
and ... wait for it ...