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Restaurants & Bars

Six Restaurants You Need To Go Back To Right Now

Bar Tartine

Michael Bauer's update review of St. Vincent last week got us thinking about all the other restaurants that either got their due in the past and continue to have a solid fan base — if not a wealth of ongoing buzz — or never got the adoration that they deserve.

Foodie Updates: Pesce Opens In the Castro, Fog City and TBD On the Way

It's time again to apprise you of the restaurant happenings around town.

Daniel Hyatt Talks Cocktails at Roka Akor

Daniel Hyatt

One of the big summer openings is Roka Akor, a modern Japanese restaurant in the former Zinnia space with a focus on robata grilled items and sashimi, all of which are buoyed by a top-notch bar program by former Alembic guy Daniel Hyatt.

Au Revoir, Rubicon

Is a taco truck pulled up outside a great restaurant at midnight an ominous sign? Is it comparable, symbolically, to the raven perched outside the house of someone at death's door?


Zuni Cafe: Through a Glass Newly?

If I tell you that the picture below was taken at Zuni (which you already should have recognized), what do you find significant about  the scene?



The answer has nothing to do with the always-sensational roast chicken or the fact that Thierry Lovato, the wine director, paired it for me with a half bottle of lovely Crozes-Hermitage from Domaine Combier, an interesting if not classic choice. No, the real shocker in the photo is the glass, which you can see is not the regular old lousy Zuni wine glass. Rather, it was a thin-rimmed, deftly shaped bowl that worked beautifully for wine in every way that Zuni's regular glass (at left in the picture below) does not.

Orson: Six Months In

 

After months of traveling and nose-to-the-grindstone work, I finally made it to Orson, only about six months after it opened. Considering that restaurant critics don't even give new joints the customary two-month lag before reviewing them anymore, my tardiness could be seen as more than genteel. Anyway, I wasn't going in to review it but to enjoy it. And, largely, that's what I did.

Peay Vineyards: A North Country Love Fest

I'm just back from the annual Peay Vineyards Sommelier Love Fest. For the wine trade only, it's an event that I am fortunate enough to insinuate myself into. I bring you pictures for two reasons.

Brooke Arthur: She's Back and Better Than Ever



Well, she's been back for a while, but I never made a note of it. If you remember, I posted back in January about Range bartender Brooke Arthur, who was injured with smoke inhalation in an apartment fire back on New Year's Eve. Well, after several long months of recuperation, she returned first to the city and, a couple of months ago, then to her job.

New Orleans Report: Oyster Po'Boys and Abita Beer (to Go)



Just a block from the Monteleone was the famed Acme Oyster House, purveyor of New Orleans seafood since 1910. I stole over there one day by myself for lunch and sat at the bar for an oyster po'boy. Gulf oysters are not my favorite--a little big and mushy for my taste--but they're good when baked, sautéed or, in this case, fried. Despite the sandwich's almost ideal appearance, I didn't love it. Even a whole layer of extra dill pickles didn't save it from being a little bland and soft.


New Orleans Report: A Spirited Dinner at August

Thursday night, I was fortunate enough to have wrangled an invitation to one of the many spirited dinners going on throughout town, in which fine food and cocktails were paired on a fixed menu. Then my good fortune continued as I was able to end up at a table with Jen Colliau (sorry about the blur) of the Slanted Door, John Santer of Beretta, and Jill Santer of Laszlo. Always nice to dine amongst friends in a distant place . . .

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