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Heather Thompson

12/11/066:13 pm

A Cure for the Appetizer Blues

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Charcuterie plates at five hot spots around town.

Charcuterie plates at five hot spots around town.Ambitious chefs have been curing their own meats in-house for the past few years; Paul Bertolli has even gone so far as to abandon his post at Oliveto to launch his own line of handcrafted salumi, Fra’Mani. But lately, charcuterie plates are popping up on unexpected menus (for example, Le Colonial’s cha que, a Vietnamese-inspired sampler pictured here) and we’re seeing more inventive accoutrements to complement the traditional pâtés, rillettes and sausages. Here’s a taste of what’s being served around town.
12/11/065:29 pm

Nesting on Nob Hill

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Former Mustards chef Terry Lynch finds a new nesting spot on Nob Hill.

Former Mustards chef Terry Lynch finds a new nesting spot on Nob Hill.Chef Terry Lynch, formerly of Mustards in Napa, hatched Sparrow in the old Watergate space on Nob Hill. Ornate Buddha statues abound in the remodeled restaurant, which sports cherry floors, white tablecloths and a sleek, contemporary bar. An extensive Asian-French menu is turned out of the exhibition kitchen; many of the eclectic dishes, such as the inaka udon with butter-poached lobster and the grilled five-spice lamb, marry the best of both cuisines.
12/05/067:30 pm

Amusement Park

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Amuses to make your mouth happy.

Amuses to make your mouth happy.The amuse-bouche—defined by the Food Lover’s Companion as “a one-bite portion to tickle the taste buds”—used to be a culinary prelude for diners shelling out big bucks on a multicourse meal. As of late, though, they have been popping up as unexpected treats at less-pricey restaurants all over town. “It’s our way of giving back to our customers,” explains chef Laurence Jossel of Nopa, “and hopefully it gets the diner excited about what’s to come.”
10/02/0612:23 pm

Go, Go Gadget

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We asked local wine experts: What do you really need—apart from the juice?

We asked local wine experts: What do you really need—apart from the juice?EN GARDE!
“My Champagne saber [similar Laguiole saber, $325, at laguiole.com] provides sheer entertainment value. Plus, it’s a sword. What’s not to like?” —Craig Demko, general manager, wine steward and sword master at Andalu Restaurant

COLD SHOULDER
10/02/0611:53 am

Shoptalk

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As standard big-box supermarkets close down, new urban-friendly grocery stores are taking their place.

As standard big-box supermarkets close down, new urban-friendly grocery stores are taking their place.No one has to convince us of the benefits of living in the city. But one drawback is that supermarkets can be scarce in urban areas, and with good reason: The super­market as we know it is a suburban invention—a big, one-story box with an even bigger parking lot surrounding it, taking up acres of expensive real estate. That’s not a city-smart design, and it’s starting to change.
09/23/065:53 pm

The Art of Conception

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Everything you need to know now about the fertility treatments that work.

Everything you need to know now about the fertility treatments that work.

(Part of a multi-part series, Baby & Me, which includes Attack of the Tiny Wallet Eaters! and Babes in the City.)

09/23/064:44 pm

Mexico City

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The shops along the Mission District’s 24th Street are the place to stock your Mexican pantry—and quench your thirst.

The shops along the Mission District’s 24th Street are the place to stock your Mexican pantry—and quench your thirst.  
09/22/061:38 pm

Mission Accomplished

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It’s sunny, it’s warm and it’s the city’s newest center of cultural diversity. Welcome to Valencia Street.

It’s sunny, it’s warm and it’s the city’s newest center of cultural diversity. Welcome to Valencia Street.Once lined with bodegas and auto-repair shops, the strip of Valencia Street between 15th and 25th has, in the last five years or so, bloomed with businesses drawn by relatively cheap rents and the Mission’s perpetual hip factor. Anchored by 826 Valencia, a nonprofit established by local literary phenom Dave Eggers in 2002 to help children develop their writing skills, the neighborhood has become a mecca for painters, poets and playwrights—and the trendy restaurants and shops that inevitably follow.
09/21/0610:36 am

Market Share

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From artisanal tofu to honeycomb, the city’s farmers markets offer far more than salad fixings.

From artisanal tofu to honeycomb, the city’s farmers markets offer far more than salad fixings.JUMP FOR SOY
No longer deemed hippie food, freshly made tofu is a revelation. Hodo Soy Beanery’s organic tofu is offered in every form: firm blocks for looking (shown here, $2), fried tofu puffs, even a creamy custard made with silken tofu and served with a sweet ginger sauce. Saturdays, 8 a.m.–2 p.m., Ferry Plaza Farmers Market.

GET TWISTED
08/02/0610:08 pm

Old-Fashioned Values

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Behind the bar at Absinthe, Jeff Hollinger is on a mission to keep cocktails real.

Behind the bar at Absinthe, Jeff Hollinger is on a mission to keep cocktails real.The word “cocktail” first appeared in print in 1806, in a Hudson, NY, newspaper. It was defined as “a stimulating liquor, composed of spirits of any kind, sugar, water and bitters,” that “renders the heart stout and bold, at the same time it fuddles the head.”