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Not surprisingly, given that it’s named for the founders of the Central Pacific Railroad—Messrs. Stanford, Hopkins, Crocker and, of course, Huntington—the restaurant feels like a turn-of-the-century men’s club, the walls paneled in wood and mirrors and lined with leather banquettes. The chef, however, breaks the mold: Keep an eye out for Gloria Ciccarone-Nehls, vibrantly dressed in chef’s reds (instead of whites), making the rounds to chat with the regulars—of which there are many.
Eats:What's on your menu.: <p>This is where the wild things are. Each night you’ll find at least one game dish—pepper-cured wild boar, say, or smoked buffalo ribs—on the menu. November brings the restaurant’s annual Wild Game Week: Most recently, the parade of exotic proteins ranged from crocodile tacos (a touch tough) and New Caledonian blue salt prawns (over a delicious lemongrass salad) to saddle of caribou (served fork-tender rare, in a cherry-Banyuls reduction) and rib-eye of Himalayan yak (which, confusingly, hailed from Colorado).</p>