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Pizzeria Delfina

01/08/109:00 am

The 20 Best Dishes of 2009

(blog)
Cane Rosso makes the cut
Erin Kunkel

No longer in a pre- or post-holiday stupor, we finally feel we've got the clarity to reflect on a year of eating. It took some sifting through our notebooks, some brain jogging, some staring off into space: And then it all came back to us with the shocking clarity that only memories of delicious meals can conjur up. Some of these dishes are from new restaurants, and some from old favorites. Either way, they all defined a moment.

JESSICA'S TOP 10

Lulu's quite perfect wild mushroom pizza.
Sara Deseran

You think a trend has reached its peak—and then it just keeps going. Wine bars, fro-yo, pizza. Pizza, pizza, pizza. Pizza. Oh, and by the way, pizza.

Clearly A16, Pizzeria Delfina and Picco weren't pizza enough for us. Chefs with tattoos, fixed gear bikes and 00 flour aren't enough either. The ante has been upped. Now, it seems, you have to actually be Italian or come with papers.

Genius idea: The worst of Yelp's reviews now gracing the tees at Pizzeria Delfina.

Pizzeria Delfina might defiantly blast their punk music, but their punkest idea yet is their staff t-shirts, which had somehow bypassed me until I ran into Anne Stoll (co-owner and wife of chef Craig Stoll) the other day. We got talking, then gossiping, then bitching and lo and behold, the topic of Yelp came up.

01/25/0910:47 am

Pizza Wine: Finally Taken Seriously

(article)

Pairing Wine with Pizza: A Tutorial.

Pairing Wine with Pizza: A Tutorial.

With the continuing proliferation of quality pizzerias opening in SF (Beretta, the second Pizzeria Delfina and the upcoming Flour + Water, to name a few), “pizza wine” is finally being taken seriously. But the perfect wine for a pizza is a rare and beautiful thing. While this is not a complicated pairing, it requires that a delicate balance be struck—a balance of juiciness, fruit and acidity. A fruity wine matches the mouthwatering tang of tomato sauce; acidity cuts through the unctuousness of mozzarella; and juiciness quenches the thirst brought on by a crust.

12/04/081:22 pm

Pizzeria Delfina Round Two

(article)

Delfina's second pizzeria opens in Pacific Heights.

Delfina's second pizzeria opens in Pacific Heights.

And baby makes three—with the opening of its second pizzeria, the Delfina empire expands  into the nascent restaurant row at the intersection of Fillmore and California streets. Things the new pizzeria shares with the old: a no-reservations policy, white-tiled floors, a chalkboard waiting list, superlative blistered-crust pizzas and the tuna conserva with white beans. The new restaurant breaks away from its older sibling in a few key ways, however.

11/10/082:24 pm

Sharp Shooter: Beretta Hits the Bull's-Eye

(article)

Beretta draws in the crowds with cocktails and Italian.

Beretta draws in the crowds with cocktails and Italian.

Though there's no surefire formula for restaurant success in San Francisco, three assets can guarantee a long waiting list for a table: Italian food, great cocktails and a location at the intersection of up-and-coming and cool. If a restaurant is able to pull off this trifecta with panache, it's well on the way to becoming indispensable.

11/06/08 10:05 pm

Pizzeria Delfina

(restaurant)
Google Maps Link: http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=3611+18th+St.,+San+Francisco&sll=37.793581,-122.399328&sspn=0.011836,0.019312&g=230+California+St.,+San+Francisco&ie=UTF8&z=16&iwloc=addr

The little sister to the ever-booked Delfina next door, this is where you’ll find some of SF’s top Italian-style pizza. Because it’s tiny and doesn’t take reservations, the best strategy is to go with no more than one friend, put your name on the chalkboard, order a glass of wine from the strictly Italian list and plant yourself under the heat lamp until your name is called. A second location, on California at Fillmore, is just as busy—weekday lunch is one way to beat the crowds.

Eats:What's on your menu.: <p>Yes, there’s a clam pie and a salsiccia (fennel sausage) one, but it goes without saying that a margherita sets the pizza standard, and this one does not fail: The sauce is tangy and topped with creamy, house-pulled mozzarella, and the crust is chewy, crisp and blistered. One could live off of this alone, but the veggie antipasti are also worth trying, particularly the garlicky broccoli di ciccio or the green beans with pickled shallots.</p> <p>MUST ORDER: Arancini (when they have them) and Meatballs</p>
There are some things that you just want to love. You want to love it because of the people involved, or because it’s a great idea, or because you know how much thought and care went into making the dream a reality. But no matter how you try, you just can’t love it—at least not like you’d hoped.

I’m sorry to say that this is how I felt about the new Pizzeria Delfina on California Street. As anyone who knows me already knows, I am a huge Delfina booster. I love that little pizzeria on 18th street, despite the crushing popularity that has made a wait just par for the course. I love the stools flanking the open kitchen, the breadsticks and the bustle. I love the food, which always just seems like the perfect version—the perfect roasted cauliflower, the perfect tuna conserva, the perfect pizza.
09/30/082:49 pm

Meatballs, the New Comfort Food

(article)

Where to indulge.

Where to indulge.

The burger used to be assigned this comfort-food role. On every menu and made with everything from turkey to lamb, it was the safe choice for nervous diners, but chefs weren't afraid to make it their own, subbing aïoli for mayo, house-made pickles for Vlasics.

01/29/083:26 pm

Part Two

(article)

A good idea just keeps getting better for the sequels to these much-loved restaurants.

A good idea just keeps getting better for the sequels to these much-loved restaurants.Since ravenous diners can’t get enough of a good thing, the only solution is to offer more. And that’s exactly what the chefs and owners of these local hot spots did. While it might’ve been hard to live up to the buzz, there is no sibling rivalry here. These seven spin-offs come with a fresh twist and manage to make a name for themselves.

B Star Bar