The New Bacar …


… looks a lot like the old Bacar, but in fact it’s very different. I loved the old Bacar and the people who were involved in it, but I also have to say that it’s exciting to have such wholesale change. There’s a new chef, Robbie Lewis, who came over from Jardinere and a new wine director, the joyfully funereal Mickey Clevinger, who came from Frisson.

The food is no less elegant, just different. But what we had was great. Notice the presence of marrow bones in that picture—always a beautiful thing when you get can those. Clams with shoestring fries in an anise-flavored Pernod sauce were also delicious. There was an intense pork belly with a remarkable pepper sauce and reduction, and an Alaskan salmon with a hamhock and corn hash.

It was all phenomenal, meanwhile Mickey kept it rolling with the kind of interesting selections you’d expect from a great wine list. We had a lovely bottle of Chinon Blanc, a chenin blanc-based white from France’s Loire Valley that was earthy, crisp and slightly honeyed—going perfectly with all the diverse apps we had. We finished with a couple of Pinots—a Burgundy and one from Italy’s Alto Adige. Both were great with the duck and salmon.

Anyway, I knew I was going to like the revamped Bacar, but I wasn’t certain how much. Also, Mickey and Robbie are going to be doing some very cool and creative things, like the sommelier suppers, where you can have a casual family-style meal with Mickey and taste through a couple dozen of interesting wines that may go onto the list, etc. I’ll keep you posted.

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