Drink-induced revelations often happen while someone’s balancing on a bar stool, trying to read neon through a shot glass. But there’s no neon at Benu, the fine-dining restaurant in SoMa, and I’m sober when I lift that cordial glass. Chef Corey Lee’s faux shark’s fin soup has already built Benu’s reputation, but nothing prepared me for the drink served with it: a 1968 Madeira.
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